Fri, February 28 2020 » Fashion Blog
Fri, February 28 2020 » Fashion Blog
VERSACE FALL WINTER 2020 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
“Who is the man and who is the woman of today? The reason I wanted to show my men’s and women’s collections together today is because men and women are equally powerful. It doesn’t have anything to do with gender, it’s that their power comes from a different type of confidence, both from their sensual exuberance and their minds.”
- Donatella Versace -
Versace has always been synonymous with sensuality and self-confidence, freedom of expression and the sense of belonging: for Fall-Winter 2020, Donatella Versace continues this cultural conversation by presenting for the first time the women’s and men’s collections on the same runway in a celebration of equality and inclusivity.
Never afraid to express a strong point of view, the collection is for those who do not dress to please everybody. A new concept of sensuality, almost restrained, sketched and never shouted, is epitomized in the slashes that characterize both women’s dresses and men’s tailored suits.
Jewelry-style rings are engraved with Versace’s iconic Greek Key pattern and are used to hold the slashes together. Structured or bonded fabrics are doubled to give a firm shape to dresses, skirts and jackets because there’s power and confidence even in the silhouettes. Arching domed skirts, nipped-in waists and super-strength shoulders highlight the “centres of power” of the Versace tribe: flamboyant and unapologetic in its expression.
In menswear, the clothes channel strength and portray bold hypermasculinity. The shoulders are broad, and the waist is cinched. Sports references inform the collection and appear on head-to-toe tracksuits and netting-backed nylon separates. Here, the slashes add character by revealing sports-inspired netting beneath for a modern rework of a universally recognised brand code. A new sneaker, the Trigreca grounds the looks with utilitarian edge.
Prints focus on the V Barrocco that is distorted, deconstructed, enlarged and shrunk. It’s splashed across men’s tailoring, statement separates and women’s dresses and it becomes a reflection on today’s reality. It is also echoed in the tracklist, in which sounds are deformed, dissonant and not-armonic. The same V commands attention as a sculpture at the show space, a constant reminder of the brand’s unmistakable iconography.
The finale is a sequence of eveningwear. Graphic lines, accented shoulders and the Versace’s infamous metal-mesh drape over the body and is used to create short sculptural dresses. An instarsia finish composed of metal mesh and crystal mesh is used to weave the fabrics together for a show-stopping, red-carpet-worthy look.
Fri, February 28 2020 » Fashion Blog
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FALL WINTER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Metamodern Woman
For Autumn Winter 2020 Salvatore Ferragamo explores the increasingly diverse and flexible nature of contemporary female identity. During the early 20th century, Carl Jung proposed that society’s collective unconscious recognised seven archetypes of women. In the early 21st century a woman is no longer defined by such categories – she is self-defining. Feminine identify is a fluid, self-authored free space that’s ripe for nonconformist experiment and play.
Creative Director Paul Andrew says: The notion of fitting into a set “type” feels increasingly obsolete today, both for women and men. I think the identities we choose to wear today are not fixed through a single filter – they are a shifting kaleidoscope, a collage of characteristics and qualities.
Key to this collection was considering some of the many women we idolise. We found a book by Fulvia Ferragamo in which she collected botanical images for inspiration: we used this across the collection in print, knitwear and also embroidered onto shirting. We also considered a multifaceted range of female heroes from Virginia Woolf to Nancy Pelosi via Michelle Obama and Nina Simone, and worked to reflect their intelligence, bravery and beauty in the collection.
Ferragamo’s foundation is footwear: this collection is an exercise in toe-to-head dressing. The shoes range from a reworked archival heeled sandal (made with off-cuts of Ferragamo nappa), multiple versions of the new Viva shoe (flat slingbacks to powerful block heel thigh-highs), and a tough, articulated sole workboot. Crocodile boots are made of upcycled skins.
Bags included an expanded expression of our versatile Trifolio and Studio models plus a cleanly minimal day bag in vegetable tanned nappa. Hand-woven leather strapping decorates bags, shoes and coats to signal both the craft of the Ferragamo artisan, and the intertwined multiplicity of female identity and the genres of womenswear through which they are expressed.
Moods include
Powerful: chain fringed skirt and dress, floor-length cloaks, bold shearling, an inbuilt scarf/throw detail that runs across suiting and a floral trench, strikingly-silhouetted sculptural pockets.
Soft: cashmere topcoats, gauzy botanical printed skirts and shirts, slit hem cashmere skirts, cashmere tights. Structured: seersucker tailoring, pinstriped suit and bustier skirt, formal shirting with embroideries, black evening suit with inbuilt scarf/throw, boot to bustier looks in oxblood leather and black shantung.
Romantic: a dress garlanded with signature Vara grosgrain, ribbed chenille dresses, sky blue silk dress with wrapped ankle hem, sheer knit teal dress.
Pragmatic: culottes, knits, and shirting looks, leather work pants, liner jacket coat in elevated chevron quilting.
Paul Andrew said: “Clothes can sometimes define you. Worn with freedom they can also redefine you as tools for evolution, self-expression and transformation.”
Fri, February 28 2020 » Fashion Blog
ERMANNO SCERVINO FALL WINTER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2020
For Ermanno Scervino, harmony is achieved through contrasts, which speak of women and their many yet consistent personalities. Female and masculine, delicacy and strength, light-heartedness and rigour meet and
interact, but they never clash.
Precious lace blends with classic-patterned full-bodied wool, essential, clean-cut silhouettes are paired with romantic softness, animal prints with frivolous frills. Harmony is in this tension of opposites, which is resolved through elegant synthesis and Italian unique craftsmanship.
This collection is once again filled with elegant contrasts, expressed with gentle force. The statement is essential, tense, vibrant, with an emphasis on workmanship and balanced, harmonious design: flawless suits; down jackets designed as couture pieces; enveloping coats and knitwear; flowing gowns, lace undergarments and tuxedos.
The result is a wardrobe with pieces for every occasion, including Scervino’s signature double tailored outerwear, panels and fine embroidery, and lingerie-style details. Care and precision translate into unparalleled softness. The garments drape around the body, they enhance the person.
There are no signs of stiffness. This blend of wool, tweed, velvet, cashmere and silk comes in a white, black and black-and-white palette with hints of yellow, gold and light blue, notes of neutral colours and nightly peaks of black and lurex. It is an unconditional celebration of feminine beauty.
Thu, February 27 2020 » Fashion Blog
MISSONI FALL WINTER 2020 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
The narrative and emotional power of geometry is underestimated. As any other rigorous discipline, instead, geometry is full of feelings and nuances, as Edwin A. Abbott demonstrated a long ago in Flatland – A Romance of many dimensions.
This very geometric, unabashedly graphic Missoni collection is a story of feminine strength, empowerment and self awareness, told in straight lines, bold clean volumes, skin flashing throughout and the womanly taste for self decoration – using jewelry to add further layers to the story.
The freewheeling Missoni spirit is still there, but it marches to a beat of horizontal, diagonal and vertical stripes that shift, move, swing, wrap on and around the body, leaving no way to froth and frivolity – up to a point. The glittering of metal adds sparkle to a dense palette of earthy and burnt tones lit with dashes of red and turquoise.
Outerwear is bold and protective; blouson-cardigans have kimono closures and cropped tailored jackets in boxy shapes are worn with big trousers tucked into boots. Underneath, dresses and leggings cling to the body or reveal it, suggesting body-consciousness as just another facet of feminine power.
Even the New Bags with narrow scarves as straps have an assertive geometric presence. After dark, patterns melt and everything gets soft.
Menswear is just as bold in shape, sensual, and equally glittery. The neatness of the design lets geometry explode in a frenzy of patchwork, swarming everywhere and in every size, from micro to macro.
A Missoni signature through and through, patchwork is Missoni-ism elevated to an nth: a way to reaffirm optimism in these turbulent times. Letting geometry take the lead in the most playful and graphic of ways, patchwork allows for endless kaleidoscopic variations.
As such, it is luxuriously narrative, which finally demonstrates the theorem: the emotional power of geometry is potent. A warm thank you to Cameranebbia for their contribution to the setting of the show.
Thu, February 27 2020 » Fashion Blog
Wed, February 26 2020 » Fashion Blog
BOTTEGA VENETA FALL WINTER 2020 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
An explosion of vitality and movement, the Fall 2020 collection celebrates a sublime evolution. Rooted in a new dimension. Immersed in a dream. A poetic sensuality pervades every garment. The security of the vulnerability. Pure self-expression.
Rich wax palettes enhance the depth of the black colors;scarlet, lollipop, kiwi and chocolate. Elongated silhouettes wrap and adhere to the body. Refined comfort and warmth.
The delicate nuances of socks and bandages recall the curves and sinuosities of the body. Joy. Grace. Form. The braided continues to emerge, revolutionized by modernity.
The tension between tradition and innovation. Delicate family heirlooms glisten behind amplified fringes and perverse layers. A sense of loss and discovery. Hypnotic ornaments blend and move beyond intimacy.
Staff. Comforting. Sensitive. A fascinating journey through everyday life. A new elegance suitable for any eventuality.
Wed, February 26 2020 » Fashion Blog
MARCO DE VINCENZO FALL WINTER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
As in the children’s drawings, where the proportions are subjective. Where objects or people are represented without thinking about how they really are. Change the proportions of things. Enlarge them and reduce them as you wish. An explosion of shapes that dictates new rules.
The brooch on the sweaters is so oversized that it is no longer the detail, but the protagonist. Garments and accessories as if they were enlarged by a copier. The shoes have stilettos larger than 200 percent, and the result is a game of curved and wide lines, almost like a comic book.
The knitting stitch is giant, almost exploded. So also that of the stitching of jackets and skirts. The micro doll coats, the sweaters; everything is disproportionate. The typical zipped men’s wallet is no longer a pocket accessory, but a mini bag with handles and shoulder strap.
It is the magic of a girl who no longer plays with her mother’s wardrobe, but creates a new one for herself. The lady like becomes a completely personal fun, mixing macro and micro.
Wed, February 26 2020 » Fashion Blog
ICEBERG FALL WINTER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK
Iceberg presents the new Fall/Winter 2020 a contemporary luxury sporty, grungy and punk womenswear collection. The new season encapsulates the brand’s world: knitwear first of all, as well as outerwear with diamond-shaped quilting, the skilful mix and match of fabrics, all those details that define luxury sportswear and the cartoon influence.
The undisputed star of this collection is the brand’s knitwear expertise. Technical three-dimensional knitwear, glossy, luxurious and meticulously designed. Macramé angora, fluffy mohair and wet-look sequins on relaxed, comfy silhouettes. Slanting geometric patterns play with the diagonal maxi sports shapes.
The diamond quilting, marked by small “I”s, of the cocoon bomber jackets and fitted tailored knitted coats, flows from the tops and ends on the super-slim midi skirts.
New shapes for jackets, knitted corsets, trousers and also asymmetrical dresses, define a new femininity. Short blazers, masculine trousers with a cube lettering print. Lace and tulle, embroidered, mixed and overlaid, create a more evening, clubby feel.
The Jetsons, are incorporated on the iconic sweaters, made with double effect embossed diamond stitching and balloon sleeves. “I need my space” and “out of this world” adorn the signature knits ironic and humours simultaneously.
Textured fabrics such jacquard cady + scuba, embellished with lurex, including a split version, make every single outfit shine. A tailored piumino over coat and elongated knitwear are adorned with the collage mash up work of close friend and colaborator contemporary British artist, Eddie Peake.
Accessories: earmuffs in faux fur, hats, gloves in quilted nylon and lurex socks. Sporty boots and puffy bag. Frosted silver and pure galactic whites are juxtaposed with the black and gold of wild techno parties. Military green and acid green, red and pink.
Wed, February 26 2020 » Fashion Blog
