Thu, February 7 2019 » Fashion Blog
LOUIS VUITTON FALL WINTER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
The collection
Imagine a boy born in the 1950s, raised in the humble surroundings of Indiana. Imagine that boy fifty years on, evolved into the most recognisable and universal symbol of unity on the planet. There once was a boy, who saw the human nature we all take for granted with different eyes and transformed it into the most captivating ideas on Earth.
A boy whose prodigious talent catapulted him into unparalleled fame; whose boyhood, teen-age and adulthood unfolded before the eyes of the world. He was ever-present: a living, breathing, gradually evolving reference for the personal development experienced by every human being.
But this boy was larger than life. Through his mesmerising theatre, he brought together his audiences around the world in all their diversities, giving them a single beacon to which they could all relate. His art existed on a level accessible to all, drew on entities familiar to all, yet far exceeded the social impact of any other artist. Moving through the stages of life, the way we all do, he was compelled to constantly alter reality.
A footstep turned into gravity-defying dance, a sigh mutated into a throbbing beat, and every normal object around him was gilded in a new light. His only initial privilege was his talent: a superhuman ability to elevate everyday life and give its components new meaning. Through his ingenious lens, an ordinary wardrobe comprised of the staples familiar to us all became extraordinary; every jacket, glove, sock and hat fashioned into an instrument of awe.
From the swaddling garments of boyhood to the outgrown silhouettes of adolescence, the boy’s understanding of dress evolved on a public platform. Through his life, the boy established a wardrobe at once out-of-this-world and familiar to all. His life would become the only recorded study of a man’s sense of dress from boyhood through adulthood to play out on a globally observed stage. But this boy would become an example of multiplicity far beyond his own control.
Maturing in front of the world, his look grew remarkably differentwith age. By destiny, and his advancing sense of identity, he became a culturally indefinable phenomenon: a universally relatable marvel: Every person on Earth could mirror themselves in him. Every child and adult cheered for him. Lightyears ahead of his time, the boy inspired a cultural revolution that still reverberates today. That boy once walked among us. Michael Jackson was here.
The show
The Fall-Winter 2019 set, visualised in the image of the streets of New York City, features a live installation by graffiti artists JIM JOE, LEWY BTM and FUTURA. An original soundtrack, You Know What’s Good, is composed and performed live by DEVONTÉ HYNES aka BLOOD ORANGE along with MIKEY FREEDOM on vocals, HART on bass, and JASON ARCE on saxophone and flute.
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
DIOR FALL WINTER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
A sensibility of couture, a spirit of now. The Dior men’s winter 2019-2020 collection by artistic director Kim Jones draws on the attitudes and imprints of the house of Dior’s couture heritage – shapes, techniques, materials, ethos – then reinvents them anew. Alongside this continues Kim Jones’ examination of Christian Dior the man – namely, his background as a gallerist of the avant-garde of his time. It is mirrored today in a collaboration with the artist raymond pettibon. All become, in essence, acts of translation: from feminine to masculine, from art to fashion, from then to now. Examining the past, making it speak to the future.
The inspiration is all derived from Dior, from the house’s emblems and markers, and then evolved. Animalier, drapery, architectural tailoring, a soft color palette, de luxe haute couture materials. An unmistakable, often imitated but never equaled elegance. A parisian sentiment. The animalier comes to the fore as monsieur Dior’s beloved panthère – introduced in his first collection in 1947 – is joined by tiger and leopard patterns in knitwear and intarsia furs.
The notion of couture is expounded through tailoring, sometimes inlaid with panels of satin as if the lining is exposed. That idea is heightened in pieces that are entirely reversible – expressive of the idea that couture should be as perfect inside as out. A utilitarian bent to harnesses and vests reinforces the notion of couture as a craft. Alongside tailleur comes flou. The technique of moulage – the couture method of draping directly on the form – inspires gestures of fabric used to frame tailoring.
The asymmetry of the diagonally-wrapped tailleur oblique is further explored through coats with panels that wrap across buttons, disrupting the precision of their shape. Other jackets have panels of fabric that button inside, draping to the floor – theoblique, extrême. The preciousness of haute couture is reflected through fabrications – cashmere, silk satin, furs, that are combined with technologically advanced materials to give fabrics a high-gloss sheen.
Knitwear is made with a new technique, which resembles moiré; lace is cut into body-hugging sweaters. Nylon is used to mirror silk with its lustrous surface texture: beautiful yet lightweight and practical, it is representative of a modern idea of luxury. The color palette is archetypal Dior: palest blue, mauve bisque, a symphony of pearlized grays, midnight blue and black.reflecting Dior’s love of and fascination with the art world, Kim Jones collaborates with the artist raymond pettibon for this collection.
A curation of existing drawings are shown alongside debuts of entirely new works specially-created by pettibon, and evolved into prints, knits, jacquards, and hand-embroideries. A figure subconsciously influenced by the mona lisa; a pair of eyes staring into the future against an impressionistic sky. These references to classical art are joined by works inspired by Dior; a spray-painted version of the Dior animal print – punk panthère – which resembles a floral, and a reimagining of the house’s logotype, used in jewelry.
As Kim Jones reinterprets Dior, he invites others to do the same. Christian Dior’s personal obsessions and superstitious nature are the theme behind the jewelry by yoon ahn, featuring mementos and charms, worn like amulets and as charm bracelets. The Dior ‘cd’ emblem becomes the fastening on a safety pin. It simultaneously speaks of punk – of the now, and the contemporary art of raymond pettibon – and the world of haute couture.
Underscoring the crossing from the feminine to the masculine world, accessories continue to translate the Dior ‘saddle’ bag into a men’s wardrobe. Today, Kim Jones’ reinterpretation is executed in nylon or lush leopard-patterned mink as a new cross-body style; backpacks, also in nylon, feature Dior’s signature cannage quilting. The ‘saddle’ becomes a pocket on utility gloves elongated to opera length.
Other bag styles draw on classic Dior shapes, their scales altered and adjusted. These sit alongside the hyper-modern: a series of cases designed for the electronic essentials of life today include sleek cases in raymond pettibon-printed plexiglass, leather or Dior oblique canvas, designed to fit not one but two iphones – new necessities.
The shoe styles feature nylon gaiters, the leather intricately brogued or laser-etched with panther spots.the collection is presented as a series of tableaux vivants along a vast, 76-meter-long moving walkway, like a couture salon showing of the past but on an operatic scale.
In place of the monolithic statues of the previous two seasons, here the looks form the centerpiece, striking poses in sculptural attitudes that, like classical artworks, throw shade.shown in the heart of the french capital, this Dior men’s collection – like the house of Dior, like the art of haute couture itself – is fundamentally, quintessentially parisian.
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
KENZO FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
At a time when the movement of peoples and the spread of cross-cultural dialogue marks our daily lives more than ever, our interest in telling personal stories at KENZO has never felt more appropriate. For the Fall-Winter 2019 collection, our focus turned to Humberto’s Chinese-Peruvian heritage – the Tusán people whose ancestors arrived from Guangdong province to settle in Peru in the 19th century. Today they number in the millions, and the diffusion of Asian traditions throughout South America is a palpable force.
This rich and colorful exchange of stories mixes with the contemporary realities of alpine life, as extreme conditions see both men and women layering bright, ethnic textiles with modern tactical garments. In our interpretation, the drama of the Andean colour palette (from Cusco to Machu Picchu) meets piles of fuzzy texture and a touch of Parisian sophistication. Couched in the Ayahuasca dreamscape show set by the artist Pablo Amaringo, this collection invokes discovery and exploration through mind, body, and spirit.
Within the women’s collection, hiking gear has an overt feminine twist, as swirling polar fleece comes tailored and swathes of waterproof nylon are given soft volume and drape. Inspired by the import of rice into Peru, knitwear and recycled raffia pieces feature custom KENZO calligraphy, and an archive ‘Earth’ print returns under the cover of clouds.
Pollera and pencil skirts receive the technical treatment, traced with drawstrings and paired with zipped mock-necks or patch-pocket blouses in tonal ensembles. Papery leather shines in roomy parka and anorak shapes, whilst shaggy jacquard faux-furs create wood print and blanket plaid effects. 5-pocket jean and cropped cargos are cut in winter wools or acid-washed denim.
Menswear takes the road less traveled, keeping in mind the military trappings of early explorers. Transformable all-weather outerwear pieces feature harness collars, reversible mesh linings, and detachable pocket gloves. A membrane coating gives pop tailoring extra bounce, as zip-up polar fleece returns in roomy quilted jogging pants (mimicked elsewhere by luxe striped shearling). Worn with plaid felt overcoats and checkered crew knits, straight canvas trousers zip-off in color-blocked panels. In the same way, a three-pocket bag zips out into backpack, tote, and fanny pack shapes.
Blinking from a resin bijoux ‘eye’ clasp, our new KENZO Tali double flap bag is unveiled for the season in a rainbow of colors and crafted in stamped lizard and faux croc leathers or oval ‘eye’ quilting. Held in the hand, on the shoulder, or worn cross-body, it comes printed with the season’s KENZO rice bag motifs and swings with sunglass cases or shaggy shoulder straps.
For men and women, footwear styles see town and country collide, with laced Inka trekking boots and mesh sneakers lifted on stacked soles. Women’s Lima kitten heels fuse faux fur under plastic, whilst squared boots lace up the calf with a scuba sock insert.
Carol Lim & Humberto Leon
Sat, February 2 2019 » Fashion Blog
Fri, February 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
ACNE STUDIOS FALL WINTER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
“I wanted to imagine our own counter-cultures which then morph together, with their own ways of living and surviving” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.
The collection explores counter-culture as a way of being. Outsiders from different fields – academics, anarchists, bohemians, off-grid pioneers – are gathered then mixed, as if to build a new community.
Their clothing takes on its own individuality and character. These men have a magpie attitude to style, a look that is both practical and romantic. The wardrobe brings together seemingly disparate elements that, together, makes fresh sense.
Jersey tops have purposefully imperfect ribbing, patched with images from the classic anatomical textbook Gray’s Anatomy. Chunky knit snoods have fringes so long they almost touch the floor.
Tweed coats are woven in wool and cotton to give crispness. Cowhide coats are left their natural shade in places, elsewhere dyed vivid brights.
Jacquard tops are woven in patterns like football kits from another era. An alternate football shirt pattern is printed on a bohemian hoodie and coat, made from wool woven with polyester.
Cashmere boucle cardigans have been washed, and are worn loose as an outer layer. Pants have fastenings like dungarees that can be worn folded open.
Tailoring in jersey cuts close to the body, with small flowers trapped in the see-through buttons. Other long silhouette suiting has Lycra for added stretch.
Ponchos are knitted as if from loose threads trapped in fabric, with fringing only on the front.
A sweater has loose yarns trapped under a layer of sheer pink nylon, as if all could be unravelled.
Hiking boots supercharged soles, while rubber industrial boots are perfect for surviving the elements. Multi-pocket body bags are extremes of functionality.
Brooches trap flowers in resin, as if pressed in a book. Spherical cutaway jewelry are as if the symbols of a new society.
Fri, February 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
Fri, February 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
SACAI FALL WINTER 2019 MENSWEAR + WOMEN’S PRE-FALL COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Men’s 2019 Autumn & Winter / Women’s 2019 Pre Autumn collection
Applying the notion of a cultural melting pot to sacai’s signature hybrid splicing, mixing references freely and with ease. Celebrating togetherness and “freedom of being” that’s symbolised by experiences in London’s legendary Bar Italia – the setting for exchanges and social cross-pollinations, with no boundaries self-imposed by a need for tribal belonging – and applying that mindset to familiar clothing archetypes.
A sharper take on menswear. Inverting the importance of “dressing to belong” sacai-style, juxtaposing references in celebration of the idea that we should have the freedom to be different, to be an individual. The familiar formality of a trench coat, subverted with leopard print; classic flannel pants hybridised with performance leggings; a single breasted suit tailored from sports performance fabric.
Playing with silhouette through construction and disrupting the layers associated with traditional outfit building. Inverting coats so that the liner becomes a pumped up outer layer; a sweater traditionally worn under a jacket instead becomes its outer shell; a college scarf integrated into a primitive jacket becomes the detail that entirely changes the silhouette. A feminine blouse is left undone, save for its scarf which serves to make a new shape and proportion. Mixing the utility of sports fabrics with the femininity of tulle and lace. Houndstooth spliced with herringbone; ladylike tweed with biker.
Sacai eyewear by NATIVE SONS adds a new dimension to a familiar form.
Custom beaded-designed Beats X wireless earphones by audio brand Beats by Dr. Dre.
Nike x Sacai LDV/Daybreak, Blazer/Dunk – two hybrid styles in a new monochrome palette.
Bar Italia x Sacai tees and hoodies.
Fri, February 1 2019 » Fashion Blog
