Tue, July 24 2018 » Fashion Blog
SACAI SPRING SUMMER 2019 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
A freeform approach that challenges traditional definitions of what’s complete and finished. Un-zipping structured, familiar silhouettes into a freeform sensibility.
Designer Chitose Abe’s signature riff on hybrid starts by drawing on the decreasing relevance of the boundaries of season, by continuing a narrative that takes fabrics and patterns associated with one season and transposing them to another.
This time, Pendleton’s South West American blankets are re-contextualised into Spring fabrics, melded with sportswear and military forms and detailing or wrapped in a spontaneous way into a chiffon, pleated dress, the blanket’s leather holster serving as a strap detail; or applied to hybrid sweater cross-pollinations, socks and shoes.
Questioning when an idea is perceived to be complete and when it’s time to stop. Edges left raw and hanging loose, creating a new proportion by doing so. Dip dye treatments that stop short of the full garment; unexpected placements of polka dot silk scarves inserted into blouses that then unravel into dresses and jumpsuits.
Tweed jackets spliced and hanging open to expose a Type II denim jacket. Denim de-constructed and re-constructed with menswear checks and MA1 military influences. Traditional garment constructions unzip into free-flowing poncho forms. Dr Woo’s tattoo art, applied as embroideries to sweaters, denim, outerwear pieces and bags.
Featuring sacai x Nike hybrid sneakers – LDV/Daybreak, Blazer/Dunk debuting January 2019.
Mon, July 23 2018 » Fashion Blog
Mon, July 16 2018 » Fashion Blog
VALENTINO SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Fashion is authentic only when it speaks about life. Beauty is connected to time, elitism is destroyed. The street encounters Couture, in a clash. Breaking the schemes, converting the extraordinary into ordinary.
Exploring unknown territories, to let oneself go in order to learn. Musical horizons, antique analogies, feathers to indulge in. Angel’s wings and classic art, hurled on sidewalks. Bombers, trench coats, tracksuits, suits: trap lyrics in a live recording.
Baseball caps, cloche and feathered sneakers: pieces that break it up but that rhyme at the same. Urban sceneries merging with personal associations. To mark, to sign, to seize: in order to be and to be there.
VLTN, as a logo and as lettering, that multiplies across the different surfaces. Magnified, cut out and duplicated. Couture as in personal and extravagant, that comes from the street. A fuchsia beat, mint green, pink, black, white.
Pied de Poule and classic patterns interrupted by the bootlegging of overprinted logos. Beauty in time with time. Couture encounters streetwear, in the street. Truly. Now. #ValentinoMenSS19
Wed, July 11 2018 » Fashion Blog
ÈTUDES SPRING SUMMER 2019 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
New School
It is the role of the artist to celebrate the anachronisms of our human condition throughout history. The displaced, the out of place, and the commonplace. Sometimes, fashion ponders these possibilities too responding and reacting to the zeitgeist by celebrating the outlier, or the renegade.
New context arises when rebels replace the establishment. With this thinking in mind, the Études collection for Spring Summer 2019 evokes a conceit of soft masculinity, where the spirit of a West Coast vagabond traverses early Hip Hop’s forgotten glory. By appropriating a veritable melting pot of cultural symbolism, the collection considers the codes of uniform and their place in the postmodern wardrobe.
A clash of poncho-striped knits, bandana paisley, airbrush stripes and American camouflage is transposed onto voluminous shapes, their context twisted through silhouette. Urban and outback tropes intertwine as faux suede fringing and Cadillac flames lick across oversized jerseys or down rodeo jeans, and baseball shirts are elevated in satin jacquards. Roomy tailoring is cut in summer wools and jaffa stripe linen, as light logo denim and twill play pale sky shades against Études cobalt blue.
The LA-based painter Henry Taylor is the Études guest artist for the Spring Summer 2019 sea- son; his paintings “Resting” (2011) and “Man on Horseback in Naples, TX” (2015) are featured as an all-over photo print on silk shirting and jersey. In a further transcontinental exchange, Études resurrects Karl Kani’s multi-coloured baggy denim and signature sweatshirts, whilst a Starter varsity jacket merges the Études logo with the major league label’s iconic ‘S’ star.
Wed, July 11 2018 » Fashion Blog
THOM BROWNE SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
this and THAT.
the world as it is, and the WORLD AS TB SEES IT. toying with proportions.
this and THAT.
normal scale and ANOTHER SCALE. a jacket and a JACKET, a shirt and a SHIRT, chinos and CHINOS.
an anthology of true american preppy – a defining trait of the world through thom browne lenses – blown up to ridiculous proportions.
the seersuckers, gingham checks, oxford stripes, rugby stripes are magnified just as the light blues, sun yellows, kelly greens and pinks are saturated. shoes gain platforms, mini gets maxi. bowler hat and round glasses to seal it all.
this and THAT.
the ordinary and the couture: what’s screen printed turns into intarsia when exploded, stitches change into crystal embroidery, wools become mink. the blowing up is both literal and metaphorical, using sartorial finesse as a tool. altering proportions as a matter of virtuoso skill.
this and THAT.
always in comparison, so that the joke is apparent.
the process is reversible.
take off the glasses, and THAT is back to this.
this and THAT.
Tue, July 10 2018 » Fashion Blog
ACNE STUDIOS SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
“I wanted to experiment with the definition of garments. What would happen if, when you described a pair of jeans, you were actually talking about a blouson? It was the beginning of a new set of archetypes, around which we built a wardrobe that plays with the idea of misinterpretation.” – Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios.
A collection of purposeful misinterpretations, leading to a liberated mode of dressing. Key garments are cut and constructed as if they are something else. Natural fabrics appear artificial. Layering blurs perception. Jeans are cut as a blouson, with a long fly as fastening, authentic pocket construction and belt loops at the waist.
A neon yellow suit is actually linen, the natural fibres making the intense dye luminescent. It’s the same for the neon-dyed wool trim on a rib knit vest. The functional details of an M-1965 field jacket are cut as a city coat; also misinterpreted as a coat is a polo shirt, with polo collar and ribbed cuff.
A neon yellow vest is knitted like a bathroom loofah. Sweaters appear to have the texture of body scrub towels. The tradition of tapestry is turned into a hyper-reality with a digital image of the Stockholm archipelago, cut roughly and used as panels on tops. White waxed cotton trousers have a layer of neon mesh beneath, which glows through from the inside.
Tech jackets are tailored as tuxedos in feather light nylon. Waists are defined by drawstrings, the collar tech satin. Tailored trousers also come in super light nylon. Loafers are like sponges; sneakers combine a sleek racer shape with a chunkier front. Bags are woven like blankets, using the fabrics of the collection.
The artist Dawn Bendick has created new sculptures for the show in dichroic glass that play with colour and light. The glow of the works provided an inspiration for the collection itself.
Tue, July 10 2018 » Fashion Blog
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
INSPIRATION
The spirit and emotion of the mid-Twentieth Century British artist. Francis Bacon. John Deakin. Soho. The artist vulnerable yet powerful. Hybrids: classic clothing taken apart at the seams, turned on its head. The maverick male in heritage McQueen.
Cut, pieced and patched trench coats, hunting jackets, pinstripes, knits, shirting and military clothing realised with the power and immediacy of a broad-brush stroke. Strength of character, individuality and creativity.
COLLECTION
Tailoring forms the backbone to this collection. The silhouette is precise. Jackets are fitted with a square shoulder and a narrow waist, empowering and empowered. Trompe l’oeil coats in pinstripe suiting are worn with gabardine trenches slashed to the elbow and lined with painters pink satin.
Bonded plongé leather rain coats in colbalt blue and painters pink are raw cut. Cigarette pants are cropped at the ankle. Shirts are worn with slashed cuffs. Traditional menswear is deconstructed, panelled with opposing garments and fabrics. Trench cotton is bonded with cavalry twill, wool silk coats layered over trompe l’oeil jackets. Plongé leather and organza layered cotton gabardine overalls are belted and undone to the waist.
Exploded paint palette jacquard knits with hanging threads are worn with leather motocross trousers, finished with nickel zips. Perfecto grainy leather jackets and biker trousers are hand-painted. Hybrid jackets in ivory wool silk and lust red are first slashed then pieced with black wool silk military coats.
Trousers are striped with lust red and optic white. Hand-painting and embroidery is abstract with bold embroidered brushstrokes. Cotton silk jacquards draw on the artist’s studio and the work of John Deakin, as do more embroideries, this time in muted silver gunmetal: “Graffiti”, “Graffiti Faces”, “You Are All Nice”.
Tue, July 10 2018 » Fashion Blog
Mon, July 9 2018 » Fashion Blog
YOHJI YAMAMOTO SPRING SUMMER 2019 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Yohji Yamamoto© Copyright 2018
Mon, July 9 2018 » Fashion Blog
