Tue, March 6 2018 » Fashion Blog
MARINE SERRE FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Manic Soul Machine draws from Marine’s last six months of experience as a designer at the helm of an emerging label. Though deeply anchored in past and present, Marine Serre’s upbeat radicalism always keeps the future in sight. Fall ’18 unveils a splicing of fragments from contemporary life with futuristic references. Tensions combine and evolve, bringing high-end fashion closer to its logical and necessary next step. Doing away with replicas of used looks, but upcycling actual used shirts into unique and irreproducible pieces with a refined, post-apocalyptic stature.
Marine Serre reacts to today’s reality through pragmatic and committed choices. The ‘ethical’ or ‘social’ labels have become far too limiting for what is going on. This is a new reality fashion, that will not be pigeonholed and does not compromise, but simply absorbs, reacts to, and works with the real needs, situations and fantasies over garments in the world today. Why would the world today need another fashion brand? Marine’s own answer: the day of the romantic designer, standing safely in a zone outside of business and production, is over. Inventing fundamentally new solutions to produce garments today is just as exciting to her as combining disparate chains of references on the aesthetic level.
Marine Serre is determined to build a brand that is playing with clothing in its entire scope, including its physical, material, cultural and dream-like dimensions. What Marine Serre truly stands for is a genuine care for reality, grasping a new and radically direct authenticity and inclusivity. She is driven by the desire to push the world of fashion some inches toward an actual future. Manic Soul Machine unfolds through a triptych of freeform movements, each a complementary facet of Marine Serre. The crescent moon from her previous collections has developed into an entire visual lexicon of its own.
The crescent is found in prints of different sorts, in almost all new patterns, in earrings, and huge logos. They are seen glinting on every look, while Marine’s trademark moire fabrics and catsuits emerge at their own rhythm. First, Manic Soul Machine tweaks the vocabulary of utilitarian wear, fusing rough edges and protective outerwear garments with echoes from couture. Stereotypical outerwear such as the biker, denim, or horse rider’s jacket, are reconstructed, adapted and reimagined for future survival.
Jersey and mousse answer to a need for comfortability and protection. Practical bottle, lipstick and phone pockets replace the classic handbag. The functional is never dismissed, but enhanced, while lightweight, wearable shelters come to underline a sharp femininity. A layer below, in the second sequence, reality hits again in another way: even simple cotton t-shirts find their way to the runway. Garments become simpler, uncomplicated and evident. This is the everyday morning wardrobe of Marine’s quintessential commuter, who instinctively picks up signifiers along her daily routine, but with a creative twist, energy and humor that can never be fully repressed.
The pared-down suppleness of athleticwear surfaces through gymnastics hints, and the first upcycled pieces are introduced. The closing act then unleashes the wild clash of inspirations that always remains at the core of Marine’s practice. Clean surf-suit and gymnastic tops flare into floating silhouettes covered in vibrant contrasts of colors and patterns. Techniques collide, and upcycling takes center stage. Used garments are processed as raw materials for a radically new aesthetics.
A series of hybrid dresses, made from repurposed second-hand scarves, are confronted with sportswear shapes and finishings. FutureWear appears bluntly handprinted on one single silk scarf. Then, a huge flamenco-inspired white dress turns up, born out of used shirts and a surf bodice. The crescents are evolving everywhere, spreading from ‘moon-ogrammed’ dresses to trompe l’oeil flower and moon-dotted patterns.
Tue, March 6 2018 » Fashion Blog
ISSEY MIYAKE FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
When thinking of the world of nature in the cold harsh winter months, there are enduring plants and animals living and waiting for spring to blossom. Quiet strength and gentleness wraps around them. Nature is a continuous source of inspiration.
Knit and pleats are both incorporated in this season’s Steam Stretch to give the new texture. Weaving low count wool thread into the textile creates a new knit-like texture.
It generates a lightness that bounces like pleated material and a functionality that is easily cared for, bringing joy and fresh surprise to the modern lifestyle.
ISSEY MIYAKE’s concept «A Piece Of Cloth» continues to evolve.
Mon, March 5 2018 » Fashion Blog
CARVEN FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
When I arrived at Carven last year, I wanted my debut to be strong visually – a reimagining of how the house is relevant today. Now that I have completed a full cycle of seasons here, it felt time to introduce this collection to you directly.
The girls who catch your attention today dress differently than just a few years ago. This has been on my mind lately as I notice women in Paris and beyond asserting a wider spectrum of identities than ever. In the context of Carven, I envision a collection of individuals whose confidence is harnessed from their contrasts.
They project their inner nature as an outward expression of style. It’s exciting to see eccentricities replacing perfection. This makes me think that no state is more absolute than their natural state. As such, the clothes they wear reflect their values, experiences and character in an ever-changing, versatile mix.
To me, this is what makes a girl of our time. Applying these insights to the FW18 collection, I pictured girls who are grounded yet always exploring. Mme Carven loved to travel and so do I. But where she touched down in far-flung destinations, I collect source material from all over without any literal referencing.
Instead, a variety of outdoorsy touchpoints – fisherman waxed jackets, quilted paneling, blanket checks – have been spontaneously reimagined with added personality. Certain pieces tap into nonspecific memories; a reworked tennis sweater, panels of a vintage lily print and modified argyles, or flannel washed far too many times.
Shifting proportions are an exercise of opposing forces: solid, sporty contours versus sheer fluidity, stiff versus soft wools. Whether higher-waist pants, knit leggings, irregularly pleated skirts, ruched shirts or mixed-material dress, the result must be wearable.
Fabrics relate to each other; two prints featuring whimsical pottery and jewellery shapes return in lace and as a subtle devoré. Even a multi-coloured wool picks up the motif as an enlarged pattern. Plaids, stripes and dots play out on surfaces and within jacquards.
Embroidery fragments offer a meaningful hand touch. I wanted the looks to feel uplifted and energized. Shoes, bags and jewellery continue to be decoratively dynamic, reinforcing an artisanal focus. Oversized colourful tassels, climbing cord and ribbon accents are becoming a new Carven signature; this time, they adorn crepe-sole utility boots and ballerines with low slanted heels.
Bags with removable charm closures, and pearls that coil around the ear become pieces that set the Carven girl apart. Otherwise, a new postman style remains relatively classic. Finally, it seems worth mentioning that my view of Carven accommodates both girl and woman.
In the broadest terms, this collection is simultaneously youthful and mature in statement and in spirit. I think of everyone projecting themselves onto the looks, adapting elements without limits; here is where you find Carven’s potential. In this way, you can sense that those who wear Carven turn heads because they fashion themselves from a personal place, and with purpose.
Sincerely, Serge
Mon, March 5 2018 » Fashion Blog
PACO RABANNE FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Through assembly and archetypes, creative director Julien Dossena envisages the Autumn Winter 2018-19 collection as an artisanal homage to the legacy of Paco Rabanne. Instilled with a radical intimacy, the collection explores the delicate impact of new craft grounded with a real-world élan.
Superimposing flat forms with dense textures, the silhouette appears in constant movement: fine wool and crisp cotton are juxtaposed in effortless tiers beneath shifting structures of chain, crystal, rhodoïd, and pearlescent flowers. The white shirt, jean jacket, camisole and twinset are reconsidered as material research incites new readings into the bourgeois underpinnings of a Parisian wardrobe.
Cage tops, skirts and column dresses shiver with metallic daisies, sequins, and four-leaf clovers. Recreating a duo of archive designs, the collection includes Audrey Hepburn’s mirrored shift from the film “Two For The Road” (1967) and Françoise Hardy’s white chain-link top seen on the July 1967 cover of Elle France.
Elsewhere, the craftsmanship of rigid materials is rendered fluid as a pierced negligée, argyle knitwear, or patchwork shearling. For heightened contrast, Breton stripes, teddy fur, and strict tailoring project shining assemblage into sharp relief.
In an ode to the ‘Iconic’ 1969 chain bag, soft new shapes burst with plastic paillettes, and a new ‘Cage’ duffel is crafted in calfskin, toile, and suede. On foot, slashed Santiago boots ground the silhouette and pool slides pop with embellished hardware.
Mon, March 5 2018 » Fashion Blog
VALENTINO FALL WINTER 2018 FASHION SHOW LIVE STREAMING – PARIS 4TH MARCH 2018 5.00 PM CET
Watch the Valentino Fall Winter 2018-19 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 4th March 2018 at 5.00 PM CET. Stay Tuned! #ValentinoFW1819
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Sun, March 4 2018 » Fashion Blog
HERMÈS FALL WINTER 2018 FASHION SHOW LIVE STREAMING – PARIS 3RD MARCH 2018 6.00 PM
Watch the Hermès Fall Winter 2018 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Paris 3rd March 2018 at 6.00 PM ( Paris Time ). Stay Tuned!
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Sat, March 3 2018 » Fashion Blog
Sat, March 3 2018 » Fashion Blog
Fri, March 2 2018 » Fashion Blog
LACOSTE FALL WINTER 2018 COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
At the dawn of World War II, René Lacoste and his wife, Simone Thion de la Chaume, developed a wide-ranging tree development project for the golf course of Chantaco in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, around the family grounds.
At that time, a number of locals were spared from mandatory work in Germany thanks to the Lacoste family, who employed them to plant trees on the family golf course, as the law protected forestry workers from conscription.
This is how 50 000 trees, covering almost 125 acres, were planted during the war, many varieties of pine trees (Maritime, Scotch, Weymouth, Austrian and Umbrella pines), as well as red oak trees, while the workers, themselves, were kept safe. As for the Golf de Chantaco, it is the most tree-lined in France.
This is the starting point for our collection this season: a tale of empathy, of kindness and of hope. Its universal reach touched me, and I wanted to transmit it by immersing you as much as possible in Chantaco, the backdrop to this lesser known part of Lacoste history.
We hold the story in our hands, while it takes place before your eyes: elegant photos of the period showing the Thion de la Chaume-Lacoste family on their land; old archive pieces of golf wear collections of the 80’s and 90’s; the club house; the family home… These are some of the reminders of the past that inspired the imagination of our creative team.
We wanted to go back to the essential values, find meaning and refuge in nature: notions of mobility, protection, comfort and hybridity became natural guidelines. Those were translated into streamlined functional clothing, aiming for a sense of timelessness suited to tomorrow’s needs.
For the Lacoste 85th anniversary, I decided to unveil a lesser known side of the brand’s heritage: the Golf de Chantaco, its surroundings, as well as Simone Thion de la Chaume, René’s wife; two champions side by side.
The latest collaboration of the house is presented here, and available as of today on Lacoste.com. We are launching a partnership with the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature), and creating 10 new polo shirts, where our beloved crocodile will exceptionally make room for 10 threatened species.
This collaboration is especially important to me, due to the extreme urgency and seriousness of its character. Ten looks of the show are dedicated to these ten species.
This is our way of planting trees in 2018.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
Fri, March 2 2018 » Fashion Blog
