Classic by design
From Vitruvius to Rasmussen; the architectural greats have made a habit of assembling their ideas into high-minded treatises. After more than 65 years in the game, Max Mara could feasibly eld a design manifesto to rival any of them. That reverence for the guiding principle is somehow more Nordic than Latin and there’s something about the quest for luxury within reach (just about, if you work hard enough) that chimes with Scandinavian ideas about democratic design.
In mid-century Sweden, the Slöjdföreningen coached edgling couples setting up house. Spreading the credo that beauty is hon- esty they laid down the rules: a linoleum oor should look like linoleum, not stone; the construction of an armchair should be clearly expressed, not hidden beneath extraneous upholstery; super uous decoration should be shunned. Max Mara has no argument with any of that – after all, why would you want to make cashmere, camel’s hair, yak or alpaca look like anything other than what they are? Not that the strict Swedish design canon (or its icy climate) produced a nation of cold ascetics; to wit Ingrid Bergman and Anita Ekberg.
Their frosty looks combined with utterly Italianate temperaments inspire Max Mara to recast of the Milanese sartorial tradition with a Nor- dic spin. The mood is captured by Johnny Dynell, whose soundtrack – Vivaldi set to a Scandi dance beat – pulses through the Palazzo Del Senato’s restrained neoclassical colonnades. Executed in colours from the Max Mara Pantheon – camel, cognac, casha, grey, and emphatic red – the look is at once discreet and head-turning. There’s Bergmanesque swagger in a new full skirted silhouette, pleats aring from the waist, slouchy glamour in a double face camel hair sweatshirt, insouciant elegance in the knits which are the key to this season’s mood; rich cables and ribs.
The principal argument in Max Mara’s thesis? Il cappotto – the coat; each one a perfect conjugation of material, form, nish and tness for purpose that would delight even the Slöjdföreningen. The newest of all are signature classics realised in intriguing hybrids; camel hair artfully tailored with shearling and bonded knit – cardigan coats that articulate a chic, youthful elan. Their deceptive simplicity the fruit of over half a century’s know-how. A modernist take on cat eye sunshades, a deconstructed bag with a shearling liner that spills over to the outside, and a pointy toed pump complete the look.
Max Mara has long championed the modern heroine in her climb to the top – no matter how tough the going, the brand helps her to make it look easy. Cool, cultured, un appable and highbrow; Max Mara anticipates her nal push to the summit.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2017-18, MAX MARA, MAX MARA FW 2017-18
Sat, April 15 2017 » Fashion Blog
Fri, April 14 2017 » Fashion Blog
FROM NEOREALISM TO THE AMERICAN DREAM
Glamour meets physicality to tell a story about sensuality and personality. In both movie screens and real life levels, two different, dovetailing dreams intersect in the N°21 fall/winter 2017-18 collection: Italian Neorealism à la Anna Magnani and her exuberant femininity and the American Dream of U.S. college campuses. Each concept emerges through the magnifying glass of a courageous and innovative aesthetic that comes from an elaboration of sensuality and of a keenly aware femininity that finds expression in the most natural of ways.
«What initially inspired me were images of Anna Magnani, not only because she’s my favorite actress, but above all because she embodies a physicality common among Italian women – one exuding a sensuality that’s neither artificial nor affected, that has a conscious element of drama yet materializes with perfect unawareness, natural ease. Her Hollywood days captured my imagination most, back in 1955 when she did The Rose Tattoo, Daniel Mann’s film adaptation of the Tennessee Williams play of the same name. I wanted to describe the moment where she – so feminine, so Italian – crosses paths with another type of femininity, the vision of gender equality taking hold on college campuses at the time, a fine male/female mix of aesthetics and references that led to a glamorous attitude which I see as very modern,» says N°21 creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua.
The American dream of an Italian woman in Hollywood comes to light in a tale about a strong, resolute, passionate personality who reflects her sensuality in red or nude tone crepe de chine dresses with crystal encrustations and other embellishments or with little chiffon shirts in counterpoint on the open back. Also, in the mannish fabric coats complete with crystal and small mother-of-pearl button embroidery; the mannish fabric tube skirts paired exclusively with crepe de chine blouses, and the damask ones worn with loose-fitting sweaters and faux-sheepskin anoraks; the mannish fabric pantsuits with gathered-shoulder jacket; the chiffon dress & micro cardigan looks; the floral print/campus lettering bomber & micro sweater twin-sets; the jacquard knit skirt & pullover outfits with sequined California beach designs; the cross-twill coats with synth fur trim and long thick faux fourrure. All featuring a silhouette underscored by the sure, sensual stride and the confidently mysterious allure that come from sporting knotted satin bow high-heel sandals, ultrasoft leather bellows bags, and the striking shades, fruit of the brand’s licensing partnership with Linda Farrow.
«I sought to tell a story that would go beyond pure feminine beauty and that would take into consideration the determination, constancy and force of character of a type of self-aware woman who in recent times has disappeared a bit from the scene but who for me has a distinct and interesting pertinence to today’s world,» Alessandro dell’Acqua concludes.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2017-18, N°21, N°21 FW 2017-18
Fri, April 14 2017 » Fashion Blog
Fri, April 14 2017 » Fashion Blog
The necessity of dreams and the inevitability of reality. The attraction of beauty and the awareness of workmanship. The Alberta Ferretti fall/winter 2017-18 collection tells a story through images of the history, culture and beauty of Italy. Images of Venice and portraits of women by Giovanni Boldini become part of this story about artisan craftsmanship and creativity. Romantic sentiment establishes a dialog with courageous innovation in this collection that expresses a romantic dream that has come true and is full of pride.
“I started out reflecting on what is happening in the world and I realized that we often forget how beautiful our country is and that we should be prouder to be Italians. I wanted to promote the beauty of Italy through images of Venice with its extraordinary opulence and mysterious moods, creating an image of a woman with a romantic appearance and innovative personality like the women portrayed by Boldini. This led to a story about a dream come true that is only affected by the extraordinary power of beauty,” says Alberta Ferretti.
This concentration of wonders that is Italy has inspired prints of the narrow streets and canals of the extraordinary open-air museum that is Venice, while the Lion of St. Mark’s, its symbol and standard, has been transformed into gold embellishments. Landscapes and symbols, prints and decorations are often combined on chiffon dresses printed with a paint-like effect and on capes embroidered in gold or printed with a lagoon landscape and lined with blue and white striped breitschwanz.
They appear on pea coats with golden embroidery, on printed velvet pajamas worn under hand-painted sweaters, on print chiffon dresses with intarsia lace, on a velvet robe with luxurious embroidery, and on dresses trimmed or entirely made of feathers and accompanied by earrings and pendants portraying the Moretto [Little Moor], another symbol of a city nurtured by its mystery.
In an atmosphere suspended between dream and reality, a romantic feminine silhouette appears, emphasizing the mystery of the story and making it real through fashion that expresses personality and recognizability. “Making one’s uniqueness recognizable is more important today than in the past. This collection is my declaration of love for Italy and its culture, for my work and for fashion. I am increasingly convinced that women can and must express their personality through the fashion they choose,” concludes Alberta Ferretti.
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Tags: ALBERTA FERRETI, ALBERTA FERRETTI FW 2017-18, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2017-18
Thu, April 13 2017 » Fashion Blog
Thu, April 13 2017 » Fashion Blog
Thu, April 13 2017 » Fashion Blog
Thu, April 13 2017 » Fashion Blog
Wed, April 12 2017 » Fashion Blog
Tue, April 11 2017 » Fashion Blog
