Paris based Wanda Nylon, winner of the 2016 ANDAM fashion prize, presented it’s Spring/Summer17 collection, featuring 28 sharp and assertive looks.
The collection is meant for a strong, independent feminine woman, referencing urban aesthetics, and experiments with numerous materials and textures to enhance a play on light, going from opaque Alcantara coats and fluid silk dresses to reflective jackets, iridescent Swarovski crystals mesh separates and see-through silk looks.
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Tags: SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017, WANDA NYLON, WANDA NYLON SS 2017
Fri, October 7 2016 » Fashion Blog
In a romantic ode to the sea, the Vionnet collection for Spring/Summer 2017 celebrates a feminine wanderlust from coastal tide pools to the ocean depths.
Channeling the heroines of Homer’s Odyssey towards a fresh, nautical optimism, a rhapsody of lightness emerges as the silhouette sways in languid motion. Echoes of aquatic flora and fauna abound in the featherweight textiles and ebullient palette that metamorphose into fanning, sculpted silhouettes imbued with the inherent dynamism of Vionnet’s bias cut.
Delicately fluent with crépon chiffon, georgette, silk tulle and encrusted with geometrical lace, floor-skimming gowns are crafted in tiers of plissé or stitched in panels of parachute silk like billowing sails. Rope bodices and belts mirror traditional sailor’s knots, creating intricate linear constructions that control meticulous draping.
Elsewhere a shivering abundance of textures invokes the mysterious romance of an underwater world, from floating dresses swathed in pale fringe and bubble-printed chiffon crépon to white cady tops cut to expose a rainbow strata of layered silk.
Even double-breasted blazers and trimmed trousers behold an innate fluidity: tailored long and lean in shades of ivory and pale blue they bear bold statements of anti-digital introspection embroidered or printed behind curtains of fringe. Collaged across poplin day dresses and wide palazzo trousers, a bird’s eye view beach scene nods to a lucid dream state of summer escape.
The Vionnet ‘Mosaic’ handbag with interchangeable rabat returns as a giant shopper in deep olive calfskin, and the ‘Maddé clutch is worn belted at the waist. Black or silver rope gladiator sandals are crafted in embossed and metallic leathers with a touch of watersnake.
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Tags: SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017, VIONNET, VIONNET SS 2017
Thu, October 6 2016 » Fashion Blog
For his Spring Summer 2017 collection, Anthony Vaccarello has let himself get carried away by the images of the designer, like ashbacks, snapshots.
In his mind, the picture of Paloma Picasso landing in the life of the couturier, with her 1940s’ second-hand clothes and her very own style. She inspired the 1972 “Scandal” collection which was irreverent and disturbing to the eyes of society.
It is this attitude that Anthony Vaccarello transposes in the present. This Saint Laurent woman who, today, draws her references from the 1980s to make them her own. This girl who cultivates a taste for what is kitsch, the bizarrely beautiful, the great classics and a highly individual style.
The starting point of this collection : a dress with exaggerated sleeves taken from the archives. From this thread, Anthony Vaccarello draws a contemporary silhouette, a sort of sensitive and personal collage.
As though this girl whose fashion culture is part of her, restructured the model, brought the shoulders down, attached a sleeve to a bustier, wore it with jeans or under a boy’s jacket – distant evocation of Saint Laurent’s sailor coat.
Corner stone of the fashion house’s lexicon, the tuxedo impregnates this collection. Exploring the tailoring savoir-faire of Saint Laurent’s ateliers, Anthony Vaccarello deconstructs and revises the tuxedo.
There is a second degree in this collection, a collection within the collection of what Mr. Saint Laurent loved above all: twisting bourgeois conventions and irting with bad taste.
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Tags: SAINT LAURENT, SAINT LAURENT SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Thu, October 6 2016 » Fashion Blog
LES SANTONS DE PROVENCE
The Spring-Summer 2017 JACQUEMUS collection refers to one of the emblematic cultural objects embodying the spirit of South of France: les Santons de Provence.
Each Santon can be recognized through specific features of his costume relating to its identity or craft: the Arlésienne, the Grand Father, the Cook, the Sheperd, the woman with lavender, the Bohemian… The collection draws inspiration from these costumes, and offers a modern and free- spirited take on tradition.
The 32 looks echo a certain delicate simplicity to be found in these traditional costumes, and exude a natural elegance. Main fabrics are: linen, cotton, wool and white lace. The 32 looks are easily readable, with clear outlines.
The colors are neutral and quiet: black (brown, navy), white, beige; sometimes contrasted by a bright red and a strong graphical polka-dot pattern referring to the Bohemian style.
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Tags: JACQUEMUS, JACQUEMUS SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Wed, October 5 2016 » Fashion Blog
Colour and precision. As in the work of two giants of photography: the primary colours of Erwin Blumenfeld’s covers for Vogue America in the ’40s and ’50s, and the iconic statue-like precision of Cecil Beaton’s black and white shots.
Rochas’ new summer collection juxtaposes and overlaps dense blocks of contrasting light. Yellow, sky blue, mandarin, lilac and green. Decoration disappears and the spotlight is on construction. Pleats, drapery, flounces. The glorious tailoring of the forties is back in the lines, volumes and silhouettes of every creation. And underskirts add substance to the dream, without ever indulging in nostalgia.
Fabrics are sumptuous: devoré velvet and floral jacquards, masterpieces of hand weaving that transforms spring into brocade and adds opulence. In dresses, shirts and above all reversible coats: creations that do away with the boundaries between daywear and eveningwear, in a triumph of flowers.
Black and white tulle, lace and plumeti bring lingerie to mind, while the colour palette veers from bright colours to the quieter powdery hues of the most refined, ethereal part of the collection.
Hem lengths all touch below the knee. Allure joins the couture spirit of the tradition and petites mains of maison Rochas with a more modern attitude, as if a contemporary Teddy Girl were to put on a formal gown, a family heirloom, and wear it in a casual, unprejudiced way.
As is always the case with Rochas, accessories provide the punctuation in a statement about who you are. Platform sandals with wooden soles and sling- back straps are lit up with colourful ribbons, or adorned with fabrics from the collection (jacquard and dévoré) like memories, echoes of dancehall wallpaper.
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Tags: ROCHAS, ROCHAS SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Wed, October 5 2016 » Fashion Blog
For summer 2017, Bouchra Jarrar, creative director of Lanvin, presents her vision of woman. This first catwalk show unveils her vocabulary with allure and style: « This first season at Lanvin is an opening.»
« I’ve been exploring the paths of sensuality and intimacy, building clothes around the body, unveiling and veiling the silhouette. I’m searching for essential and harmony. I love to dress women, to reveal them to themselves, to sublime them, to cross borders between feminity and masculinity. Hence a wardrobe which shall evolve and echo itself from one season to the other »
Fabrics
Silk chiffon ; silk georgette ; satin and mirror satin ; crepe de chine ; asymmetrical lace ; organza.
Tweed ; mirror jersey ; albene.
Dipped lambskin ; cracked python.
Lacquered fur.
Cristals embroderies ; silvergilt chains ; chain mail ; embroidered flowers.
Essentials
Lavallière dress ; Modesty dress ; tied waist dress
Sleeveless coat ; trench coat ; shawl collar coat ; double lapple jacket ; perfecto jacket.
Plastron shirt ; spencer jacket ; tuxedo.
Jewelled shoes ; jewelled bags in water snake leather
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Tags: Lanvin, LANVIN SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Wed, October 5 2016 » Fashion Blog
A pyramid of ideas informs the Défilé collection in a stream of consciousness from the Artisanal universe, as Maison Margiela explores a curious alignment of elegance and modernity. Spring Summer 2017 settles upon the merging vocabularies of archetypal, sports, and historical references: extracting the spectacular from the mundane for a triumphant reinvention of heritage.
A pivotal collection emerges through the house vocabulary defined by Creative Director John Galliano, with a dynamic sense of unconscious glamour. A cross-pollination of codes draws the eye to focus in desire and delight.
“The mission of Maison Margiela is to reject convention, and our evolving proposition stimulates nostalgia and innovation in equal parts. We believe that familiarity must be unsettled and spontaneous, with an intrinsic strangeness.” – Maison Margiela
MATERIALS
It is only through an encyclopaedic knowledge of textiles that their innate properties may be subverted into new forms. Applied as such, sports mesh is ruched into flouncing blouse shoulders, or ripstop nylon embroidered as ribbons on fluorescent lace. Industrial vulcanized cotton finds new softness as a trench coat in palest celadon green, whilst bouclé mohair and wetsuit neoprene are fused with crochet. Tattersall checked cotton, striped poplin, classic gabardine and wool gauze are interrupted by the omnipresent metaphor of the lining in tessel- lated bird print nylon.
TECHNIQUE
Everyday garments take on new lives when their archetypal structures are questioned and transformed by new compositions and finishes. Here the ‘anonymity’ of the lining emerges anew: the collar of a suspended trench dress falls as a new empire line, cabans are dissected down the lapel to expose wading, and a sports mesh smock sweeps into a Watteau-back. The toggled elastic, safety buckles, and drawstrings of a hiker’s backpack cinch the body in technical tops and dresses for a play of ruched volume. Moments of graphic embellishment arrive as fractured mirror effect embroidery, braided rubber balloon trims, ‘propaganda’ screen-prints, and po- etic cotton needlepoint on silk or velvet.
PALETTE
Both upending and conforming to the colour signifiers of a traditional garment, the colour card defies expecta- tion. Within a single garment, traditional grey men’s wear checks, taupe outerwear, and hi-vis sports hues are paired with eccentric touches of neon-tone knitwear, jewel-toned metallic leather or sheer organza, and bright raincoat yellow cotton.
ACCESSORIES
The signature 5AC bag returns in a multitude of original treatments and finishes, from nylon and leather quilting to braided saddlery details, and silver mirror leather burnished with a neon edge. A new saddle bag rethinks the leather satchel in unique oval proportions, featuring a multi-functional strap system that is worn as a handbag, shoulder bag, and backpack. Mykita x Maison Margiela sunglasses are embedded with chandelier crystals, a technique replicated in transparent arm cuffs, collars, and wire halo earrings. The scuba tabi boot features a moulded rubber sole, and an ornate jacquard upper strapped in Velcro.
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Tags: MAISON MARGIELA, MAISON MARGIELA SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Wed, October 5 2016 » Fashion Blog
TROPICO ITALIANO
The starting point is no longer the outfit itself. It’s the desire to tell our story, reveal an emotion, a way of life. In this way, people no longer purchase a piece of clothing but a memory, a love, a special moment, a DNA. Our DNA is the South and all the symbols that represent it: flowers, pasta, bread, good luck charms, shells, fish, religious symbols, music, ice cream, drinks, dolls, biscuits, forks, spoons, pizza and Mandolin.
All of this is love, is #DGFamily.
Dolce & Gabbana © Copyright 2016
Tags: DOLCE & GABBANA, DOLCE & GABBANA SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Wed, October 5 2016 » Fashion Blog
Letting go to explore the desert, under the sun, with a hat, in glaring heat: a romantic, rebellious idea. Thinking of Tina Modotti, with her longing for explorations and her deeply Italian roots. Lyrical images of workers, interiors, landscapes, botanicals and a love of roses that touches the spirit of Blumarine.
Easy forms are charged with a sensuality that is carnal yet thoughtful. The dry environment and the nomadic feel suggest a need for realness and a quest for simplicity, which at night leaves way to an intense vibration. Surfaces get textural and tactile, opposing the delicate and the sturdy.
The dress is stripped bare of everything, recalling Modotti’s choice to dye all her dresses black to mourn her lovers. Blouses are paired with round skirts. Flounces appear throughout. Passion bursts suddenly, in tropical flowers blooming as woodcut prints or embroideries.
The crafty touch of raffia details and inlay works. Pure white and pinks. Natural straw and raffia. Black and chocolate brown. Physicality, presence, mystery depict a scene of rebellious romanticism.
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Tags: BLUMARINE, BLUMARINE SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Wed, October 5 2016 » Fashion Blog
