“It is interesting to me that even though we live in a digital age with a free flow of information, there are many countries who want to close their borders. I prefer to focus on openness and looking out into the world,” – Jonny Johansson, Creative Director
Loose, fluid and feminine combinations of prints and patterns, with many garments made from and inspired by flowing scarves and blankets. Two dimensional cutting creates pieces of free volume that come to life when placed on the body. Colours go from pales and greys to primary colours in the deepest indigo, mustard yellow and red.
A fine cashmere jumpsuit is made from a soft oatmeal check matched with a paisley, while a flowing top is created from layers like the edges of scarves. A simple half-belt denim jacket is the result of rich work: stonewashed, overdyed and then embroidered.
Trims of knit frame garments, while oversized jacquard knits are of idiosyncratic pattern, often with unfinished hems. Denim dungarees bring an air of workwear, and also connect to the origins in denim of Acne Studios.
Drop-shoulder knitted sweaters and sleeveless dresses are like North African blankets worn on the body, constructed with artisanal topstitching. Repeated prints are used in different scales and combinations: paisley; indienne; checks; stripes.
Byzantine slippers have a pointed toe, while wood print shoes have a built up curved sole like the arm of a chair. Moccasins are embellished with jewels, and heels come with intensely braided straps. Unstructured bags are in suede or leather laser cut with paisleys. Rounded glasses are of intentionally small frame.
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Tags: ACNE STUDIOS, ACNE STUDIOS SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Thu, October 13 2016 » Fashion Blog
Thu, October 13 2016 » Fashion Blog
Wed, October 12 2016 » Fashion Blog
How to define a shoulder without using pads or padding, a sort of natural sharpness that almost happens by chance ?
I widened the shoulderline of a trench and shirt to a point where I could then just refold it onto itself, creating a small angular shoulder and adding volume to the body at the same time. Cut into denim jackets using even more volume in denim or contrasting orange cotton crepe creates the illusion of an even bigger shoulderline while keeping the real shoulder tiny underneath.
Thinking more about paradoxes I was wondering how to treat camouflage in the exact opposite way of what it is supposed to do (make you disappear). The answer was to simply line it with the hottest of hot pinks, thereby rendering it useless for anything else but looking hot.
V necks are cut into military parkas and denim jackets, elongated with either fluid crepe or heavy lace they turn into summer dresses.
A few ideas from past seasons resurface – the spiral skirts from 2004 become spiral dresses, curving around the body, and a cardigan cape from 2012 becomes a tailored jacket, Its constructed front turning into fluid cape in the back.
Finally boots and pumps produced in collaboration with Robert Clergerie are cut in the same fabrics as the pants of the Collection. Elongating the silhouette, they effectively eliminate the ever complicated question of which shoes to wear with which outfit.
Lutz Huelle
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Tags: LUTZ HUELLE, LUTZ HUELLE SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Tue, October 11 2016 » Fashion Blog
Tue, October 11 2016 » Fashion Blog
100% Emanuel Ungaro. True DNA at its purest form.
Maison Emanuel Ungaro’s codes, remain both fundamental and intensified. The femininity, the ruches, the flowers, the prints, and the lines. It’s romantic but tailored, sleek and modern.
The heroic Parisian aesthetic of the early 80’s is reinterpreted by sharper silhouettes under the creative direction of Fausto Puglisi.
Details within the construction become important volumetric elements, modernized by strong, decisive lines. It’s romantically bold. A bold romance.
Multilayered and voluminous necklines bring emphasis to the upper body. It’s the edgy, unexpected charm of the bourgeoisie. The prints, so symbolic of the Maison, coexist with color blocking and ruches.
Fabrics such as gazar and crinoline translate to daywear and bring emphasis to the couture spirit of the collection. Three dimensional jacquard and fil coupe accentuate the intricate textures.
White and black, turquoise and yellow, green and purple.
Royal Rebel: Princess Stephanie Grimaldi…. Like a hurricane hurricane.
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Tags: EMANUEL UNGARO, EMANUEL UNGARO SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Tue, October 11 2016 » Fashion Blog
Ceramics, lamps, objects and furniture of various provenance and periods mix equally with contemporary works to convey a personal, committed, credible and of-the-moment viewpoint. More than a mere backdrop, the environment’s rich cultural resonance permeates the collection.
Past present and future collide in highly sensual, super-organic clothes, brimming with examples of extreme workmanship and a sense of craft so optimized it seems to vanish, as precisely calibrated imperfections inform every seam, collar and closure, among other details.
A feminine silhouette is complemented with dramatic volumes, evident in the bold gesture of a balloon blouse, the exaggerated proportions of a sleeve, and recurrent fringing. Familiar ideas —lace, ruffles, the bias cut— are dismantled, abstracted and recreated for today, while domestic elements, such as tablecloths and undergarments, serve as unexpected sources of inspiration.
Pleating is manipulated with innovative washing and stitching techniques to appear woven and worn-in. A napa dress, slashed and reassembled with crochet, is fragile and sporty at once. A series of black industrial summer looks balances the overall softness of the collection.
Every look is grounded and articulated around a bag. The new shapes of the Hammock bag and the rounded trapeze shape of the new Canoe bag add to the vocabulary of the house’s existing iconic styles, which are reinterpreted here in fresh iterations. A novel entry to the Flamenco family transposes a vibrant carpet design onto suede using an special printing method, resulting in a striking three-dimensional effect.
Extraordinary jewelry rounds out the collection. Apart from a lucky ceramic bat necklace and sculptural silver bracelets inspired by an Ikebana vase, the season’s standout accessory is a calla lily handmade from calfskin, available in stores in various colours on the day of the show.
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Tags: LOEWE, LOEWE SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Tue, October 11 2016 » Fashion Blog
Mon, October 10 2016 » Fashion Blog
Mon, October 10 2016 » Fashion Blog
Past, present and future all play on the new interpretation of the Carven codes established season after season by Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud. The house’s archives serve as the basis for their urban, contemporary vision.
This season, their heroine is Madame Carven’s imaginary heiress, a girl of the moment who invites her gang to spend the weekend at the family castle. Trawling through the attics and cupboards, they discover the great designer’s personal archive and help themselves to their favourite pieces, transforming and even cutting into them to suit their own style.
Elements of the house’s history such as stripes or scarves and crests collide with a street-savvy elegance in a light and playful game of layering.
Looks mix heritage with pure creativity in a melting pot of fabrics and symbols. The lace from a veil is reworked as a crested sweatshirt, a scarf is draped around the body to become a top or a skirt. Madame Carven’s trademark florals turn over a new leaf and look to the future for a mechanical reinterpretation. A choker necklace goes for the twist, worn as a bracelet or a belt. As in previous collections, belting plays a key role, clasping together fluid dresses and tops.
High-waisted skirts, trousers with multi-pocket detail, oversized tops and bomber jackets reaffirm their role as the key pieces of the Carven wardrobe, worn alone or as part of a game of layers and contrasts. A delicate baby doll dress becomes a crisp poplin shirt in one of many examples of hybrid shapes and details. Fabrics and colours also opt for a game of contrasts, as 60s inspired wool piqué and chintz mix with brighter jacquards, or flashes of red, lilac or orange against classic black and white.
Accessories also confront styles and eras. A wide heel brings allows jewelled or strapped sandals to step into a more modern stance, while the Full Joy bag is worked in a wide variety of shades and fabrics cherry- picked from the collection. The family treasure trove also provides a signet ring and chain bracelet, reworked into a variety of ornements, reflecting the sense of happy harmony between styles and eras.
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Tags: CARVEN, CARVEN SS 2017, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2017
Mon, October 10 2016 » Fashion Blog
