VERSUS VERSACE SPRING SUMMER 2017 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – LONDON FASHION WEEK

A new manifesto for Versus Versace – real attitude and a real wardrobe for a fresh generation. The tough authenticity of leather jackets is contrasted with the fresh femininity of pleat miniskirts, while a leather mini has its belt left provocatively loose.

Cutaway dresses expose the shoulder and stomach with daring sexuality, heightened by its silver zip that runs defiantly down the back. Zip-up bombers are cropped, some with exaggerated collar, or oversized and belted, worn almost like a dress.

Parachutes nylon coats with panels of scuba have fluidity and a utilitarian toughness, especially worn with a wide belt at the chest and scuba pants. Iconic metal mesh has been reborn, bonded over the hips of sporty scuba dresses, then shredded and destroyed for an uncompromising new mood.

Metal mesh is used in innovative new ways, such as the metal mesh base of a double-layer tank, its nylon layer decorated with laminated metal mesh. A brand new Versus print is collaged from hand-drawn takes on animal prints, the vertical stripes intercut with random flashes of vivid color.

Knits are essential: in jacquards of the new Versus print; as sleek takes on army ribbed sweaters, or with a layer of metal mesh to show through fringing.

Night-time is about destroyed denim in slouchy boyfriend cuts, lined with metal or crystal mesh to show through the rips and tears. Minimalist heels are held at the ankle by a broad leather strap like a belt, the same detail that toughens up a leather box handbag.

Menswear mirrors and expands on women’s, especially the leather jackets, bombers and utilitarian silhouettes, and the use of bonded metal mesh. Watches add extra energy, like the Fire Island with its strap decorated with 3D lion heads and studs, or the urban spirit of the Tokyo Rubber.

“This is about everything real. It’s about how the Versus Versace generation live their lives, and the wardrobe that gives them power.” Donatella Versace