DAMIR DOMA FALL WINTER 2016-17 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

In a symbolic location, Damir Doma proposes a collection bound by sculptural strength, drawing upon the memories & moods of a perennial muse. Fabric works envelope the body in fundamental exercises of draping and repair. As kundera attributes ‘slowness’ to the act of remembering, and speed to the act of forgetting, so the collection considers an equilibrium of the travaillé and the untouched.

The cocooned, trapeze silhouette layers a long, straight jacket and a high neckline over wide, short trousers or a fluid skirt to continue an inherent dialogue between the codes of mens and womenswear. Solid colours warm from black and bone white through deep forest green, caramel, cherry, and prussian blue. Belted kimono coats accentuate a pure line, whilst contoured overcoats are dotted with horn buttons and veiled in fringed wool voile.

A timeworn effect touches garments with delicate and brutal details: selvedge traces pockets, zips, and hems on bomber and parka coats, whilst raw seams frame tailoring in waxed leather and wool. Applied to dry jersey, blotches of overprinted japanese paper isolates the same abstract expressionism as rich brushstroke jacquards and a fil coupé prince-of-wales check stamped with crude ellipses.

Rollneck sweaters and a column dress are cinched with cotton tape (like wide sutures) and softened by the speckled melange of inside-out ribbed cashmere knit. On foot, zipped neoprene boots have been edged in rough suede.