ICEBERG SPRING SUMMER 2016 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

My appointment as creative director of Iceberg surprised and thrilled me. For my debut I decided to start from this brand’s most authentic DNA: knitwear, element comprising more than 80% of the new spring-summer 2016 Iceberg collection.

Working alongside artisans is a continual discovery: the transition from idea to reality has never come so natural to me. Above all, the very technique, the know-how have become a source of inspiration.

I took my place face to face with the 40 years of Iceberg history with a keen sense of curiosity and a wish for great fun. I felt as if I were stepping outside the radar of my own plan of action so as to bring what I know and what I like into a new and interesting territory.

The army aesthetic and a sport type of cut, both intrinsic to the Iceberg style, were the incipit of my story. To these I added a streak of madness, a playful spirit drawing upon the multicolor creativity and the sense of humor of Enrico Baj, an Italian artist I admire for his carefree concept of anarchy.

My intent is to give shape – through clothing – to the idea of freshness and energy emblematic of today’s world. With Iceberg I’d like to build an easy wardrobe at once cosmopolitan, irreverent and sensual. Knit fabric, in the role of raw material, is perfect for fulfilling this task.

It’s a narrative tool able to capture and express the urge to break the rules all while staying true to tradition. Finally, there’s my love for sharp graphics and for its opposite, disorderliness.

Jacquard and vinyl. Straight lines and soft lines. Optical designs and flat surfaces. In looking at the collection what comes to my mind is a melodic score out of rhythm in a few spots.

It mirrors my aesthetic: rigor and anarchy, a counterpoint that leads me to stretch the style to its limits. Then stop and glance backward, with levity.

Arthur Arbesser