Umit Benan keeps nurturing an enduring fascination with bold expressions of masculinity. It’s the energy and the assertiveness of certain characters that endlessly inspire his approach of designer cum storyteller. For his new collection, entitled Comandante, Umit Benan heads straight to Cuba, in an imaginary trip taken in the days after the Revolution.
He looks for Ernesto “Che” Guevara and his posse of generals, and he finds them sipping mojito and Cubalibre at a bar, smoking a cigar, relieved after the victory, someone in his uniform, someone in his pajamas or beach shorts. It’s not the martial aspect of the military life and style that Umit is after, in fact. Rather, the bon vivant spirit of those kindred spirits enjoying life in a beautiful island.
Enthralled by the simple complexities of human behavior, Umit Benan shows the unexpected: what’s behind the stern façade of the freedom fighter. He does so with a healthy dose of humor. Because even a comandante, after all, is a man who sometimes lets it loose.
The collection is bold, with a sense of virile luxury. Pieces have a strong presence, highlighted by the richness of the details, by the precision of the sartorial work. Following the idea of showing the unexpected, uniform jackets and coats are tailored inside out: the lining is proudly taken to the front, its contours defined by graphic piping.
The sum of the different parts composing each garment is highlighted by the juxtaposition of different materials: contrast pockets are sewn onto sleeves, the carrè comes is another hue. The silhouette is lean yet easy, waist cinched by military belts. Jumpsuits suggest efficiency, the double-breasted blazer a certain swagger.
The essential elements of the military repertoire are reshuffled: Nehru-collar jackets, belted coats, bombers, shorts. Striped suits come with the metaphoric slouch of a pajama, while knitwear has a feisty and summery graphic appeal. Silk t-shirts and bathrobes ooze lazy fierceness. Raw hide boots, backpacks and duffles complete the look.
The color palette is classic: tones of blue, beige, military green and cocoa, and then flashes of red and light blue. By playing with militarism is a humorous way, Umit Benan suggests a peaceful message that knows no borders: style as a way of enjoying life at its fullest, anytime.
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Tags: SPRING SUMMER MEN 2016, UMIT BENAN, UMIT BENAN SS 2016
Sat, October 17 2015 » Fashion Blog
Sat, October 17 2015 » Fashion Blog
Fri, October 16 2015 » Fashion Blog
Spring 2016 reimagines the archetypes of American sportswear. Taking aspirational cues from the refinement and romance of blue blood lineage, Ivy League athletic clubs, and militia uniform, the collection repurposes regimented formalities with a cool street attitude.
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Tags: PHILLIP LIM, PHILLIP LIM SS 2016, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2016
Fri, October 16 2015 » Fashion Blog
From a very young age, we have been intrigued by the notion of a voyage, of traveling and the exploration of the deserted. When creating this collection for summer 2016, we think of the man who makes these roving forays across uncharted lands. We imagine his strong, experienced, utilitarian and purposeful silhouette.
We consider his eracticality and resourcefulness. The silhouette is boxy, easy and loose. Breathable fabrics make for more comfortable movement. “pull” tags on classic garments exaggerate their functionality and transform shapes and lengths. Fabrics resemble tent or parachute materials that have been repurposed.
Leather mesh outerwear let winds pass. Ultra light fabrics of paper-like nylons, waterproof or crinkled cottons are worn with more heavy cotton nattes, spongey Wool/nylons or bonded jersey. The color palette camouflages the wearer into his surroundings.
Beige, sunbleached yellow and stone are matched with tobaccos and anthracites. Cactus flower tones offer pops of fuchsia. Prints of lunar maps, rippled sand and exaggerated cactus appear sporadically. 3D cactus knits offer extra volume.
Multi-pocket, shape-changing parachute bags allude to the freedom of these wayfarers. Cross strap sandals and reimagined desert boots in suede or patent leather have thick soles to combat the arid and tough terrain. Sunglasses are set in planet-like frames.
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Tags: KENZO, KENZO SS 2016, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2016
Thu, October 15 2015 » Fashion Blog
“I still remember the sense of wonder I felt when experiencing that simple magic of a kaleidoscope – countless pieces that would shift, rotate and converge, creating infinite images and juxtapositions though constant in their beauty as a whole. Through the kaleidoscope, I see the Canali man, suspended in the timeless atmosphere of an everlasting Mediterranean Summer.” (Andrea Pompilio)
For SS16, Canali presents a novel vision of Summertime icons as colors, fabrics, styles and silhouettes come together in countless combinations to form a dynamic and elegant tableau of looks for the new season. Colors travel decisively across a natural palette that adds impactful accents throughout the collection. Blues progress from sky to aquamarine, mixing with warm earth tones of ochre, caramel and burgundy, illuminated by flashes of deep sea greens.
Seasonal fabrics take on new aesthetics, boasting luxurious compositions and innovative effects. Quintessentially casual denim is presented in a wool-linen blend while a wool-silk-linen and premium cotton are given a velvety terry finish, forming distinctive textures that truly evoke the spirit of Summer. Silk organza, kid leather and nubuck lend an exceptionally soft hand to outerwear and shoes.
Lightweight tailoring and leisurewear essentials with unexpected (and sometimes hidden) details are key. Trench coats and jackets are cut in pure silk organza, whose transparency allows a glimpse of the distinctive ‘double layer’ Egyptian cotton shirting beneath. Two-button jackets feature particularly placed bellows – a leitmotif of the collection – on the back and on the front patch pockets, which extend down to the bottom hem.
Clean-cut briefcases are offset by unstructured backpacks and playful hand-crafted lariat key-holders, all embellished with a graphic contrasting stripe whose optical impact adds a touch of whimsical originality. Hand-finished shaded calfskin loafers and lace-ups in a myriad of hues set the tone while aubergine crocodile-skin brogues with hybrid espadrille/rubber ridged soles make a statement.
The proportions are subtly shifted and softened, creating a fresh and relaxed silhouette. Destructured jackets feature clean, graceful lines and pants are more relaxed at the reverse-pleated waist and thighs, tapering towards the bottom to a contemporary ankle-length crop.
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Tags: CANALI, CANALI SS 2016, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2016
Thu, October 8 2015 » Fashion Blog
Thu, October 8 2015 » Fashion Blog
Missoni S/S 2016
Missoni Men’s S/S 2016 collection is the expressive telling of their itinerant man’s emotional metamorphosis as he journeys through the exhilarating country of India. The senses are awakened, time slowly erodes, culture and tradition delicately reveal themselves, vitality is reinvigorated and conventional, Western manner is abandoned for Eastern, sentimental rousing. Relaxed silhouettes, soft tailoring, featherweight knits and potent hues define this season’s Eastern state of mind.
Delavé linens, cotton crêpes, cottons dyed in natural indigo, and summer wools have been artfully woven and knitted in symbolic, powdery pigments—indigo, emerald, Jodhpur blue, jasper and vermillion underscored by amethyst, turmeric and marigold—establishing a harmonious fusion that venerates Indian textile and pattern work and conjures up imagery of sacred rituals, bustling markets, lush fields, amber deserts and drawn-out sunsets.
This collection focuses on the interweaving of Western functionalism with Eastern adornment and craft. Inspired by the antique, indigo-dying techniques of Jodhpur, Missoni has created an unorthodox denim-like fabric that beautifully ages with wear. The multicolored, irregular-checked Madras, originating in modern-day Chennai and conventionally used for fishermen’s loincloths, has been reinterpreted by Missoni. Customary Gujarati weaving methods have induced this season’s use of ikat-inspired patterns that imaginatively recall the colonial, regatta stripe. These old-world techniques have been masterfully reworked and elaborated on Missoni’s heritage looms in Sumirago and have taken form in a four-pocket field jacket with patchwork sleeve inserts, a five- pocket, Missoni jean, a military-inspired short, a two-piece suit, a double- breasted blazer, a pyjama pant and a mirror-work, embroidered tunic.
This season commemorates Missoni’s first collaboration with the historic luggage maker, Globe-Trotter, which has produced a limited-edition series of artisanal luggage pieces— mini utility case, trolley case and extra-deep suitcase—that have been outfitted in Missoni’s specially-designed, macro knits. Southern California footwear maker, Malibu Sandals, has created two ethnic-inspired, hand-woven sandals in eco-friendly materials that perfectly complete the looks proposed in this season’s main collection as well as Missoni Men’s first, stand-alone swimwear collection. An ongoing collaboration with Converse has yielded a revamped version of their All Star Chuck ’70 using a vibrant, space-dyed, mesh knit which is both breathable and conducive to dynamic exploration.
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Tags: MISSONI, MISSONI SS 2016, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2016
Thu, October 8 2015 » Fashion Blog
