A “collection”: a subjective and ideal ensemble of objects that reveal the profound traces of our character.
What is a fashion collection made of? It’s a multi-dimensional journey, facetted by experiences both immediate and distant. Shreds of discoveries, recollections transformed by memory, imaginative anticipation… Treasures brought back from unfamiliar lands or explorations into the intimacy of a wardrobe. A sentimental anthology of iconic images and ridiculous photos that still have primordial meaning.
Essential references and other, more singular ones that belong solely to the chapel of our personality.
That’s what a fashion collection is. It’s an inventory that embraces everything: a solemn past, a fertile present and the inevitably dreamlike future. A collection is a travel diary. It’s an open-ended journey into the world that reflects the daring paths of the spirit. It’s a sentimental adventure made of scattered inspirations and great aspirations. And it has only one means of locomotion: intuition.
The intuition of a garment and the way it’s orchestrated are the key to style. Understanding the excellence of a basic —the better to take it somewhere singularly imaginative— will always be the best path.
This collection is a proposition of style, an invitation on a journey about finding the momentum to transcend what we know so well in order to take it toward something we’d like to discover.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, LOUIS VUITTON, LOUIS VUITTON FW 2015-16
Tue, June 23 2015 » Fashion Blog
Tue, June 23 2015 » Fashion Blog
« The homage to Jeanne Lanvin at the Museum Galliera museum made me feel the need to go back to my own roots, to Morocco, where I was born ». Alber Elbaz
Opulent and strict. Dry and warm. Raw and precious. Black and white. Collarless and buttonless. Graphic and unexpected. Opaque and transparent. Lean and oversized. Masculine and feminine. Berber stripes and floral motifs.
Panne velvet and boiled alpaca, washed silks, real matte python and faux python in glossy lambskin. A patchwork of textures, honey colored sensations and sweet nectars.
Colors of etchings and soil: red pomegranate, blue ink, cinnamon and deep burgundy, brown, grey and black baked in the sun.
From the city to the desert, an easterly wind blows over the metropolis: a wind that makes you want to wrap up in a long sharp-edged blanket coat, a vest in oversized Tibetan goat or in a pair of lamé saffron and gold pyjamas.
Calling on all desires, from the most opulent to the most graphic – the gloss and the matte skim each other – superimposed in an endless game of contrasts… a Lanvin signature.
Under striped woollen capes, we find brocade chiffon dresses with passementerie belts, silk braiding, plaited tassels, toggle fastenings and gold cords.
The Lanvin Winter 2015 collection is an invitation to urban travel.
The LANVIN NOMAD handbag follows this wind in grained lambskin, black ostrich, ink-colored nubuck calfskin and caramel python. True luxury is a look, a hand, a needle and a thread.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, Lanvin, LANVIN FW 2015-16
Tue, June 23 2015 » Fashion Blog
Tue, June 23 2015 » Fashion Blog
In evoking a calculated imperfection, the individual emerges.
Maison Margiela proposes a new alignment and the evolving fil rouge of the ‘Artisanal’ collection. Whispered to life, garments question ideas of conformity, and the élan of the individual rises to the fore.
Innocence is celebrated, articulating a new standard of beauty. An ephemeral muse returns, her power reactionary and sensitive. Personalities shine in characters mingled through a sepia lens.
Transformation is vital; spontaneous, cathartic gestures meet studied craft for an attenuated silhouette and its immediate release. The twin lives of a garment are the key to its nonchalance, just as day fades into night.
Such musings disregard the dated concerns of what to wear, and when. Tailoring and flou find new proportions, both charming and askew.
Just as fabrics are imbued with memory and emotion, their allure serves new context across the articulated body. At times, they reference themselves; elsewhere they allude to a deeper metafiction.
Decoration follows suit: naive flowers and feathers subvert the bourgeoisie through a muted joie-de-vivre. At once diffused and saturated, their colours allude to a warm sense, a fashion lo-fi: like polaroids inflected with acid dreams.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, MAISON MARGIELA, MAISON MARGIELA FW 2015-16
Tue, June 23 2015 » Fashion Blog
Mon, June 22 2015 » Fashion Blog
Mon, June 22 2015 » Fashion Blog
Mon, June 22 2015 » Fashion Blog
The A.F.Vandevorst collection by An Vandevorst & Filip Arickx is an evolving non-linear narrative, inspired by travels of the mind, body, and spirit.
Autumn Winter 2015/16 evokes an escape to the Andes Mountains, and its stark landscapes punctuated by the jubilant costume of the Peruvian people.
Studied in monochrome, their dense and decorated vestments are instilled with a dramatic chiaroscuro, a shadow play of detail and silhouette that shines unencumbered in the dark.
‘Streamlined tradition’ describes the hand-touched, sculptural softness found throughout, as textiles are wrapped, laced and moulded around the feminine form.
Natural fibres abound, with a profusion of organic textures underscored by the bold details of high-altitude clothing, with giant whipstitch lacing defining the contours of stovepipe trousers, cuissard boots and slim blazers.
Long and languid suiting meets the flared volumes of hand-tucked and pleated wool skirts, falling to the knee or past the ankle in pitch black, bright white, and a muted palette of grayscale tones.
Surface builds from the flatness of crisp poplin creeping with Chivay embroidery through to tapestry-print crepe and felted wool, developing into the rich, layered depth of thick-pile knit fringing, ombré Tibetan lambskin, jersey faux fur, and a herbaceous rose jacquard.
Up close, mourning ribbons adorn jacket lapels and a band tee translates the Incan myth of the Ayar brothers as an irreverent graphic motif.
A series of wool coats and gowns are backed with aluminium to create sweeping gestures of movement inspired by the wings of the Andean Condors of the Colca Canyon, as are Stephen Jones’ draped bonnets (lending a touch of the absurd).
Brogue boots in rose jacquard, suede or calfskin are elevated on a stiletto heel, traced across the instep with hiker’s lacing.
The performance piece “White Light, Paint It White” by Belgian artist Joris Van de Moortel is integrated into the show, as models and musicians alike are transformed to the strains of “White Light White Heat” by the Velvet Underground.
(more…)
Tags: A.F. VANDEVORST, A.F. VANDEVORST FW 2015-16, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16
Mon, June 22 2015 » Fashion Blog
Mon, June 22 2015 » Fashion Blog
