Horror vacui vs modernism. Heritage vs techy. the billowing bourgeoisie vs the restrained rectilinear. For Autumn/Winter 2015 Katrantzou observes the inverse relationship between the horror vacui art movement and reactionary modernism. An exploration of the relationship between heritage opulence and techy utopia, the collection seeks to redefine the parameters of modern luxury and documents the significance of value perception.
From the victorian grandiose, a maximalist demonstration of wealth and social stature through heady excess, to the contemporary pursuit for minimalist luxury – stealth wealth. The collection juxtaposes both paradigms, capturing the filtered beauty within each. The linear contrasts with the sinuous; the modernist restraint is in dialogue with the floridly embellished and kenophobia is observed through a purist lens.
The victorian parlour found a parallel on the back of the victorian woman. decadence and decoration moved to the body of the female: a walking embodiment of social stature. Katrantzou references this through flounced, ruffled silhouettes, embracing the body tightly, kicking to fullness below the knee, with the bygone elegance of a belle epoque grandee. Garment surfaces are crowded with detail and texture. The contrast to the nineteenth century bourgeoisie? tubular echoes of a modernist aesthetic, emulated in strict rectilinear shapes and abbreviated hemlines. Silhouette is simplified, a stark contrast to the heritage verbose. Seamless moulded tailoring breathes life into the utopian concept of the ideal female form, with Katrantzou looking to automotive textile technology to create seamless sculptural forms without stitching.
Perceptions are inverted. Flared skirt panels are realised through tucks, ties and wadded hem channels. Hand-folded pvc strips create tubular volume; slim plasticised strands are embroidered onto traditional damasks adding depth and dimension. Flocked tulle and intarsia mink cut in purist lines offset with swarovski crystal and macro sequin geo embroidery. Patterns are drawn from heritage fabrics. classic damasks, rose prints and paisleys intertwined with techy organza pleats, plasticized ruffle bands and graphic foam applique.
This collection challenges and explores our notions of status, value and plain good taste.
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Tags: FALL WINTER 2015-16, MARY KATRANTZOU, MARY KATRANTZOU FW 2015-16
Wed, March 4 2015 » Fashion Blog
In dedication to our mother, Christine Kane
“Everything I do essentially comes from drawing; it ultimately reflects how I feel,” says Christopher Kane. “I wanted a feeling of attraction and sensuality in the collection, something sexual but not grotesque – this is about love and art in life as well as fashion. We had a series of life drawing classes in the studio, with everybody in the team involved. It is all of our sketches combined that makes the ‘lovers lace’. It reflects that sense of togetherness; of male and female in an almost molecular and mechanical attraction, as well as a more classical sensuality –both feelings that I wanted to come across this season.”
The pull of attraction and the power of seduction infuse the current Christopher Kane collection. Opposites attract and sensuality is expressed both literally and metaphorically throughout –a combination of masculine and feminine, hard and soft, romantic and real. Altogether for Autumn-Winter, there is a notion of the desirability of desire.
Here, sumptuous fabrics in a rich ‘night-life’ colour palette form a foundation for experiments in silhouette and decoration, encouraging a notion of touching as well as looking this season. Unlikely combinations abound; high-shine chainmail is inset with stylised floral Swiss lace, tulle is printed with life-drawn figures in glitter, an ‘electric orgasm’ current is reflected in velvet flock while cascading forms elegantly fall apart and reveal flesh in a two tone ‘tonic velvet’. These experiments reach a form of consummation in the life-drawn ‘lovers lace’; figural drawings silhouetted in Swiss lace, entwine, build and in turn form themselves into new silhouettes, this time of clothing.
An element of the sensual is frequently played out against the scientific this season in a notion of molecular attraction. Accessories and fastenings are frequently ‘chromed’ and act as rounded protection on box calf bags and shoes as well as desirable decoration. Some are sexually slotted into place –like the signature safety buckle, that is a leitmotif throughout the collection and extends itself from fastenings to jewellery this season. While others simply feature as a reflecting, mirrored surface, seen in many of the leather treatments that abound for bags and shoes.
On February 20th 2015, Christopher and Tammy Kane’s beloved mother, Christine Kane, passed away after a sudden illness. In the light of such overwhelming and upsetting news, there will not be any access backstage today for greetings and interviews with Christopher Kane. The designer thanks everyone for their kindness, support and patience at this time. Thank you.
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Tags: CHRISTOPHER KANE, CHRISTOPHER KANE FW 2015-16, FALL WINTER 2015-16
Wed, March 4 2015 » Fashion Blog
Issa © Copyright 2015
February 2015, Issa presents Autumn/ Winter at One Great George Street, London. The brand’s first Collection under the Creative Direction of Jamie O’Hare explores the confidence and sensuality of the Issa woman. Animal prints and fringing allude to her wild side, but the fluid fabrics, slivers of exposed skin, and attitude with which she stalks the runway, make this a polished rather than bohemian interpretation of the sauvage.
Print inspiration came from aerial views of the graphic patterns in the desert made by the Bahrain race track; interpretations of these patterns weave through the collection in diverse fabrications and techniques; prints in black, white and red are patchworked against animal print on an embroidered shift dress, woven and knitted on jacquard coats and separates, and embroidered on hemlines and stone encrusted dresses. Subtle black, white, navy and blue base colours are enlivened with bright red, topaz and chartreuse.
The mixing of contrasting prints and patterns is prevalent throughout; a crocodile effect jacquard coat is worn with abstract leopard print trousers, whilst a race track inspired knitted blanket coat is belted over a leopard print top. Patterns are also juxtaposed on the brand’s signature pieces; a knitted dress features contrasting print panels in leopard and paisley, and a roll neck jersey wrap dress features varying floral prints pieced together to create stepped hems.
Differing jersey fabrications are combined to progress the brand’s signature draping; sheer, opaque and shine jersey panels combine in wrap dresses and tops constructed from asymmetric panels that lend a modern fluidity to the silhouette.
The subtle reveal of skin is a recurring collection theme, through lace and sheer paneling on trousers and dresses, cut outs on knitted tops, and embroidered dresses that disclose a glimpse of the body beneath. This is a collection that comes alive in movement; a suspended back dress appears to float, slashes on a long dress reveal the legs when walking, and dresses and coats feature stepped fringing that flows and floats in the wearer’s wake.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, ISSA, ISSA FW 2015-16
Wed, March 4 2015 » Fashion Blog
Wed, March 4 2015 » Fashion Blog
Relaxed and decadent, with tribal and nomadic inspiration –the Winter’15 collection combines elongated and layered silhouettes with languid tailoring capturing the opulent mood of 1920’s Paul Poiret.
Colours and fabrics are rich and warm – camel, teal, jet black, turmeric, and hibiscus juxtaposed with shimmering metallics, topaz blue and acidic pops of orange. Textured feather and crocodile jacquards mix with soft, fluid pale silks and sequins for the evening.
Knitwear is key with layered knit jacquards and printed knits in tribal and feather inspired artworks.
Oversized luxurious coats, relaxed velvet tuxedo jackets, wrap-front trousers and circle legged jumpsuits bring a fresh, confident direction.
Opulent lame’s, sequins and mirrors for evening and heavy tribal stitch works combined with bold floral designs are worn with cashmere layers.
Accessorised with men’s dinner scarves, hand embroidered cross shouldered bags and smoking slippers for an effortless yet elegant look.
“This season is both effortless and confident, one collection for all the women of Temperley London” – Alice Temperley MBE
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, TEMPERLEY LONDON, TEMPERLEY LONDON FW 2015-16
Wed, March 4 2015 » Fashion Blog
The twelve signs of the zodiac, with all their mystical properties, form the starting point for autumn/winter 2015. The astrological symbolism of star signs played on Matthew’s mind to inform all aspects of the design process – from shapes and colours to embroidery and print.
Silhouettes for the season are feminine: the distinctive shape of Pisces is mimicked in the curves of a draped gown. Floor-sweeping lengths are styled with Mongolian and leopard print furs, then slung nonchalantly over the shoulders, while flashes of skin in deep v-necks and high-split hems bring a focus to new erogenous zones.
Birth stones influence the rich jewel colour palette – from garnet and amethyst to jade and sapphire. Creatures of the zodiac and birth flowers have been painted by hand then layered and intertwined in a style reminiscent of folk prints. The horoscope symbols add a mystical narrative in etched prints and gold bullion threadwork embroidery, inspired by eighteenth century costume.
The aesthetic embodies the bohemian Brit girl, just like the many women who first struck Matthew and the studio’s imagination.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, Matthew Williamson, MATTHEW WILLIAMSON FW 2015-16
Wed, March 4 2015 » Fashion Blog
David Koma has always been drawn to a powerful, sensual woman but for Autumn/ Winter ’15, she is distinctly carefree and confident. Signature strictly tailored silhouettes get a new outlook with the introduction of more separates, as well as his classic dresses. The designer explores the shapes and sensibilities of the Sixties and Seventies.
This is classic Koma re-worked: trademark angular lines broken by cyclical cut outs, knitwear, macramé lace and ruffles. Longer-line skirts come with a daring split up their front, while an expertly cut jumpsuit boasts a flared leg. There’s a new sexiness and sophistication to be found here.
In striking black comes a series of buckled wool dresses, all high necklines – and even higher hemlines. Macramé knots inspired by the Op Art textile designer Barbara Brown work to reveal and conceal flashes of skin: cyclical patent leather defines tiny waists; and ruffles at the wrist and thigh are playful.
Bright orange and bold indigo are offset with classic nude tones to bring the “youthquake” couturiers André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin to mind, and other of the decade’s influences are seen in the heavily embellished Perspex and crystal finale dresses.
Malone Souliers x David Koma’s first collaboration sees sharp stilettos and space-cadet-style sandals take to the catwalk.
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Tags: DAVID KOMA, DAVID KOMA FW 2015-16, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16
Tue, March 3 2015 » Fashion Blog
Tue, March 3 2015 » Fashion Blog
Call Me
SIBLING Women’s Autumn Winter 2015
“I know a girl from a lonely street, cold as ice cream but still as sweet”
Blondie
This season’s SIBLING women’s collection is their take on a young sophisticate: the girl who sneaks backstage to hangout with the band, who studies you intently from under her backcombed fringe, who finds imaginative ways to dress to disguise her age. She’s a girl cool beyond her years, but is it just a front to mask her shyness?
A SIBLING signature motif merino sweater yells, “Call Me” – an homage to Blondie but also the over eager shout out of the SIBLING LC:M boys to these unobtainable, cool girls.
A small town exhibitionist, she makes her presence felt through her mismatched layering, her scarf decorated with beautifully hand beaded Sputnik badges and her dress covered in the handwritten words to Sunday Girl. The buttoned-up style of intricate twinsets and fur trims echoes that of the grand dames of Sloane Street via Gloria TNT. Her watch of choice is not the expensive gift from a much loved relative but a fair isle doodled Baby-G offset by glitter polish nails painted to match her sandals.
Latex adds a sex shop shine to the collection. Add in brushed Mongolian lamb, Lurex and a riot of beads and sequins, and this collection becomes a youthful reimagining of sophisticated lady chic. The colour palette is influenced by the work of Francis Bacon and Verner Panton: pink-purples, electric blue, orange and black. The latter seen in latex coats, oversized hand knit bikers, fur trimmed halter necks and fine mesh mini-dresses.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2015-16, SIBLING, SIBLING FW 2015-16
Mon, March 2 2015 » Fashion Blog
