Mon, February 16 2015 » Fashion Blog
Mon, February 16 2015 » Fashion Blog
VALENTINO FALL WINTER 2015-16 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Progressive aesthetics. Personalities sharing a vision. Imagining the new Valentino collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were inspired by moments of non-conformist artistic movements, presenting a contemporary synthesis of seminal experiences.
The point of departure is the Ballets Russes, an experiment of total creativity during the 1920s in which Djagilev worked with the most famous artists of the time, from Picasso to Bakst, moving from naturalism to mysterious simultaneous geometry.
The modernist urgency and the radicalism of the color field in the Sixties were, through Futurism and Cubism, an ideal consequence that is showcased in today’s geometric motifs of Australian artist Esther Stewart, with whom the Creative Directors have collaborated, translating her works from the surface, within the structure and construction of the clothes.
The idea is to create a community around the Maison with the knowledge that dialog and crossover produce spores of progress. The symbolic connecting thread, is the savoir-faire of Couture, core value and distinctive trait of Valentino.
The silhouette is sharp and sleek. Essential garments of the male wardrobe have undergone a meticulous transformation, blending embellishment and practicality: oversized PVC zippers close long straight coats, while pockets in a contrasting shade work as color blocks.
Esther Stewart’s compositions trigger a sequence of micro and macro geometric patterns transformed into patchwork, prints and intarsia: in double cashmere for Couture coats and through the textures of Shetland wool sweaters. Camouflage also becomes intarsia. Slim-fit jackets have a high button stance.
Cigarette trousers are worn with sturdy lace-up shoes or nude-colored sneakers with bands in a contrasting shade. The search for aesthetics and function creates a system of graphic patterns on slim-fit parkas, capes and blouson jackets embellished with stripes and geometric motifs.
Heat-bonded flowers decorate lapels on herringbone print blazers and coats. The savoir-faire of Haute Couture, in a masculine version, penetrates everything, producing shifts and changes: the aesthetics of precision typical of the Valentino man become vibrant with an energetic and dynamic aplomb.
Completing the concept, the color palette features idiosyncratic combinations and contrasts: blue, gray, green, red, light blue, pale yellow and burgundy blend in an effortless style that includes and accentuates an offbeat touch.
Mon, February 16 2015 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 14 2015 » Fashion Blog
Thu, February 12 2015 » Fashion Blog
ROBERTO CAVALLI FALL WINTER 2015-16 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
Roberto Cavalli © Copyright 2015
NO BOUNDARIES
The Autumn/Winter 2015 collection interprets the grandeur and opulence of the Baroque, not from a strictly literal perspective, but focusing primarily on the core ideas of expressiveness and exuberance.
Reprising the American reference points of previous seasons, this collection, with it’s slender and sharp silhouettes, also takes inspiration from the rock musician.
Leather pieces are embellished with metal and rubber studs, combining elegant details with biker and cowboy elements – not least in the collection’s biker boots – all seen through an Italian lens, creating an idea of the “Tuscan Prairie” that serves as the Roberto Cavalli playing field.
It’s a style with strong infusions of vintage; illuminated by a palette of golden colors comprised of blacks, tonalities of camel and sand, blue, and electric blue, while the animalier prints, nature’s own tapestry create an alternative to the gold details.
Last but certainly not least, the “No Boundaries” and “Empathy” bands worn under some of the looks symbolize the elevated approach to life of this Florentine designer; in which their are no psychological or material barriers – only endless possibilities.
Tue, February 10 2015 » Fashion Blog
Tue, February 10 2015 » Fashion Blog
ERMANNO SCERVINO FALL WINTER 2015-16 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2015
CHECK, STRIPES AND FLOWERS
For Ermanno Scervino’s romantic rock patterns
The Ermanno Scervino man for the coming Autumn-Winter will be wearing inverted shearlings, heavyweight flannel shirts in cotton with micro-crystal inserts all emanating that romantic rock flavour that this Maison has chosen for its modern dandy.
Check patterns are starring on bouclé wool overcoats with shearling on the collars, and hints of red, burgundy and lime. A tailored look for overcoats, cabans and duffle coats, with fastenings in hand-stitched leather, declined in the salt & pepper, herringbone, chevron and maxi-Prince of Wales patterns, coupled with shades of camel.
The interiors reveal a knitted lining in a striped pattern, also in the knitted creations in mohair. The Navy overcoats become glam uniforms thanks to the micro-mirrors embroidered on lapels and collars.
The outer knitwear is brightened up with multicolour mouliné threads, with Norwegian-inspired stripes and jacquard patterns, or with contrasting fluo colours on the grisaille jacket of the tailored suits. The pants are slim-fitting and in new fabrics, like the Scottish wool batting.
A must for evenings, the shirts in check patterns with micro-crystals, over trousers with a tuxedo cummerbund. The details: the tuxedo band is in knitwear with a striped pattern. For the accessories, split or calf lace-ups in the colours of the collection.
Ermanno Scervino states: “Today a designer must know how to remain true to his DNA, proposing something beautiful, something new, but always with top-of-the-range quality to please his international clientele.
Aiming for a timeless beauty with its roots in the present but projected towards the future is the goal of everyone who produces Made in Italy items”.
Sun, February 8 2015 » Fashion Blog
GIORGIO ARMANI FALL WINTER 2015-16 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
Romance
As in a Hemingway novel, intense and vibrant solo characters make up the story of a new collection that focuses on the need to outline the essence of male beauty-virile and sensual, but with an underlying softness.
To express this vision of contemporary aesthetic, Giorgio Armani breaches fashion show etiquette to revolutionise the traditional sequence based on fabric weight and functionality.
Everything is mixed up: each exit has its own character, each model is an individual player, bringing out the uniqueness of the pieces worn and the complexity of today-beauty, which derives from a racial melting pot and transcends geographical and cultural barriers.
This aesthetic vision consists of clear and bold iconographic elements, including a lightweight, short and snappy jacket, with no stiffness, for a new slimmer silhouette.
The outfit is completed with high-waisted trousers, vaguely reminiscent of the thirties, with wide hips that seamlessly merge into a tapered, slightly curved leg, creating a sexy, manly movement.
New processing techniques allow for double fabric creations, internal edging, and lasered details, creating weightless structures that feel almost imperceptible to the touch.
The finest luxurious materials such as Cashmere, Vicuña, leather and crocodile skin offer a variety of unexpected, gratifying tactile sensations.
The colour palette brings out the shades of urban grey: a milanese chromatic scale, designed for lovers of this city, in which grey layers sometimes sink into dark and mysterious black hues, or evolve into warm and bold brown tones.
Splashes of antique blue and a few hints of burgundy, or a thin bed of dark green with olive-coloured nuances, create unique surprise effects, not so obvious at first glance.
Thu, February 5 2015 » Fashion Blog
FENDI FALL WINTER 2015-16 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
The FENDI Men’s Fall/Winter 2015-16 Collection is tailored for an urban dreamer. He enjoys freedom. He is restless, also during his lunch break. All he needs is a blanket to rest on, an apple to eat, a soccer ball to play, a bag to carry the kit. Oh, and a park, but of course, no matter how big.
The collection merges lightness and precision, and features the staples of the masculine wardrobe interpreted in the FENDI way – deceiving the senses while pushing craft to the limits. As ever, the focus is on texture: what looks like corduroy is in fact sheepskin or leather, while pinstripes are laser-cut 3d motifs and regimental stripes turn into intarsia; suede morphs halfway through into calf. From afar, everything looks familiar, but at a closer inspection it generates surprise.
The silhouette is soft and comfortable, all straight lines and rounded shoulders. Suits have boxy jackets and trousers that flare at the hem, while coats are sharp and exact. Tweed and club stripes pay homage to tradition but in untraditional ways. Protection characterizes outerwear. A graphic sense of clothing as sum of parts is conveyed through contrast pockets on boxy jumpers and utilitarian slacks, or geometric applications on duvets. Utility is paramount: suede coats can be folded into zippered pouches or are completely reversible, blankets are in fact scarves and feature roomy pockets.
Tones of grey, blue, milk and tobacco build up the classic color palette. Fabrics are dense and tactile: felt, corduroy, tweeds, suede, sheepskin, mohair and shetland.
Accessories are sturdy loafers with fur inserts and felt shoppers or backpacks with straps to hold blankets. The new apple and smiley furry bag charms surprise with an ironic touch.
Wed, February 4 2015 » Fashion Blog
