Salvatore Ferragamo © Copyright 2014
For Spring Summer 2015, the iconic facets of Salvatore Ferragamo are reimagined by Massimiliano Giornetti. By playing with textures – handled, cut, frayed, and melted – the collection experiments with craftsmanship and handmade uniqueness. Materials entertain pattern with imperfect perfection, evolving Ferragamo design, creating an original personality. Always seeking balance, the 3D allure of surfaces is expanded to showcase the purity of precise and vibrant tailoring.
The silhouette is elegant with an almost invisible waistline, while meticulous lines flow around the body closely. Knitwear dresses defined by small ribs and crossed by meticulous bands form a progression of density. Tops and skirts are married by sculptured details possible only through the skill of the atelier while more compact surfaces present transitions of transparencies. Pouch coats and short capes fastened at the waist with reptile leather belts are crafted from structural woven fabrics that also remember Salvatore’s original use of materials mixed with python or skin interspersed with woven snakeskin. Materials with an organic effect on the exterior contrast with the bold sparkling satin interior linings that decorate garments. Highlighted pieces of the collection play with the unseen: halter necks reveal the shoulders and voluminous trousers glimpse the calf.
The colour effects of murano glass are utilized and transformed into jacquard prints on overcoats that create form in the vertical. Animal-print motifs and designs iconic to the House of Ferragamo recall the colours of reptiles which naturally merge with the geometrical patterns in a magmatic process of graphic and chromatic fusion. The collection is permeated with warmth: capturing the magic of transforming matter, emblematic of the process in creating Murano glass. Natural colours are broken by sudden bright flecks and metal veins that underscore a metamorphic quality.
The vertical profile of the figure is enhanced by bold wedge heels, a design that remembers Salvatore’s original rainbow sandal with elements of early 1940s, this time modernized in monochromatic palettes reinforced by the luxurious details of tiny chains and exotic skins. Handbags, a tribute to Ferragamo’s handcrafted elegance, come in the form of doctor bags referencing the use of mixed materials, chain shoulder clutch handbags with geometrical inserts, and mat tote bags with polychrome glass handles.
Murano glass makes literal use of the Italian craft with bracelets, chains and clutches hand blown by craftsmen.
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Tags: Salvatore Ferragamo, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SS 2015, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2015
Fri, September 26 2014 » Fashion Blog
Thu, September 25 2014 » Fashion Blog
Jil Sander © Copyright 2014
Born under the creative direction of Rodolfo Paglialunga, the Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2015 collection is a coalescence of genders.
Lines are borrowed from sharp masculine and graceful feminine contours. The result is a re-imagined hybrid of the two. The sum of which ebbs and flows delicately between his and hers to find a harmonic balance.
At the heart are mantras which are an extrapolation of Annemarie Schwarzenbach, a Swiss photographer and writer from the 1930’s, who embodied an unconventional and androgynous beauty standard. Her persona was a shift toward elegant indifference, a world traveler and civic pioneer willing to go beyond the norm.
Irreverence for definitions is the conception of beauty that inspires the silhouettes. Layered skirts clad in double gabardine with sheer poplin linings. Clean cut jackets of cotton duchesse, silk and nylon. Asymmetric poplin dresses and oversized bermudas in fil coupé.
Binary lines and geometric jacquards enliven fabrics. Sturdy materials handled with thoughtful intricacy anchor compilations. Officiousness found in utilitarian form and function is muted.
The palette draws on opposites, black with white. Ochre tones, earthy and opaque, stand against steely hues. Sandstone and clay are thrust next to greens oblique with gun-metal grays.
Paired with tensile nappa socks, flat or heeled geometric sandals are hewn from leather and tinted crocodile.
Patchwork leather belts are ensconced with geometric motifs, designed to accentuate and underline the waistline. Re-worked and freshly interpreted satchels, in refined leather, strike between wit and practicality.
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Tags: JIL SANDER, JIL SANDER SS 2015, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2015
Thu, September 25 2014 » Fashion Blog
Iceberg © Copyright 2014
Summer, super summer! Palm Springs, Californian summery feeling to an active city woman. It all starts with blocks of intense color – blue, red, pink – and the black and white of the micro prints : patchworks designed as Memphis furniture. High-waisted trousers and lapels with slogans such as popsicles package.
California and color: it can not be more summer! The fuchsia and orange are the uniform of the heroine of a video game. Fully printed mini dresses, jackets and pants.
Step by step, black and white is taking over, graphic prints, stripes and organic shapes for a technoïd turn. In a dream where the dragon fruit is the main character, wardrobe for the night. Black is structuring the fantasy. Virtual versus real movement : video game and sports.
Keyword: canyoning. Water and stone. Cuts and rounded edges like scuba suits: zip and straps. Let’s play, pasting stickers everywhere … fruits, spaceships, cocktails and climbers glitter applications on ultra lightweight chiffon … Sparkling plastron covered by a draping of soft embroidery.
Robust leather strap sandals with solid and curved forms heels, rubber effect to the touch. Belts as climbing gear on each silhouette, bucket bags and eyewear reminding the diving ones.
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Tags: ICEBERG, ICEBERG SS 2015, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2015
Thu, September 25 2014 » Fashion Blog
Msgm © Copyright 2014
… for those who have read FREEDOM, and exclusively for JONATHAN FRANZEN fans.
“FREEDOM speaks of the FUTURE”
Walter Berglung’s life is falling apart and he continues undeterred in his obsession for the small warbler, the defenceless symbol of a species threatened by extinction.
And then there is the charming and charismatic Richard Katz with his obsession for indie-rock music which brings him fame and turns him into an international star.
They are obsessions.
MUSIC AND WORDS.
FREEDOM.
THEY ARE THE RULEZ BY MSGM.
BIRDS and MUSIC.
“Je ne suis pas une femme fatale”, Mme Bruni said.
“Je suis la femme ressort”, the French indie-punk group LA FEMME sings.
Woodpeckers are mean and punk on cotton duchesse.
The chaffinch becomes a bold print on mikado, or 3D, embroidered in multicolour plastic.
Hummingbirds and sparrows turn first into geometric prints and then into fake embroidered patches.
The new obsession: LETTERING.
F.R.E.E.D.O.M.
EMBROIDERED. MACRAME. PATCHES. On organza. On tulle. On cotton.
Street Style is not abandoned. It is pushed to its limits.
The old obsession: FLUORESCENCE and STRIPES.
Neon yellow. Neon orange.
FLUORESCENCE IS BACK.
STRIPES ARE BACK.
“Tu te poses des questions; n’écoute que la musique. Le ressort ne tient plus le choc”.
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Tags: MSGM, MSGM SS 2015, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2015
Thu, September 25 2014 » Fashion Blog
Contemporary Nostalgia
This season is a timeless poem
For a timeless woman
Who is modern and classic
Contemporary and nostalgic
Florals as scarves, denims as coats, stripes as maxis
Transparent dresses to see through the finest woman
And long and longer dresses flow like rivers
A season, a poem, a woman, of colors and directions
With the quiet of an aqua sky blue, and the new energy of the ultramarine
A palette of rich pastels, bright tones, youthful accents
All held in harmony by timeless natural whites
How delicate the artistry
Double face finishing, accented color inners
Wire beads, fine foulards, exquisite belts, constructed handbags
Giant knits, intarsia sequins, techno fabrics, summer cashmere
Wool, cotton, nylon, denim, and the poetry of silk
Our silhouettes widen the imagination
Very mini vs the very long
A-line and volume, straight and boxy, simple shifts
Play on time – with gilets that have lasted centuries
Play on proportions – from head to beautiful toe
With fine handcrafted platforms as well as exciting high heels
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Tags: ANTEPRIMA, ANTEPRIMA SS 2015, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2015
Thu, September 25 2014 » Fashion Blog
In his fourth collection, Arthur Arbesser continues his search for a modern aesthetic – a radical elegance that engages daily with society, art and architecture.
During the design phase, Arbesser turned his attention to the work of two German artists: Blinky Palermo and Isa Genzken. The colour palette this season comes from Palermo, who also inspired in Arbesser a general desire for clean design. The work of Isa Genzken, by contrast, pushed him towards trying unusual pairings of materials, with elements such as sponge, honeycomb and waxed nylon.
One of the most interesting experiments here involves the knitwear – an important focus of the collection – with yarns of transparent nylon and 3D viscose jacquard. The uniform remains one of the themes that the designer enjoys working with. So the polo shirt and the denim jacket have been re-worked and improved using innovative solutions. The tailoring is andro- gynous but is combined throughout with a choice of light, evanescent materials, reaffirming the tension between masculine and feminine that is often present in Arbesser’s creations.
The silhouette is well-defined, and its play between space and non-space, colour and transparency, and strength and fragility should be seen as Arbesser’s personal, heartfelt comment on our image and imperfections as human beings.
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Tags: ARTHUR ARBESSER, ARTHUR ARBESSER SS 2015, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2015
Thu, September 25 2014 » Fashion Blog
CAROLINA MY CAROLINA
A passionate dedication to Carol Rama
The first time I met Carolina I was terrified … I admit that it does not happen very often, I would say that it happens rarely to be so terrified that I could not think of anything else.
Yes, it was decided: First, we’d go to the gallery to see her artworks, afterwords in the afternoon we’ d go home to Carol’s, just by food as she’s living just round the corner in front of Mollino’s house.
Carol welcomed us in the hallway, crowned by her braid and took us to the bedroom. She was sitting in her armchair and told us where to go: “You here, she there and you, Antonio, come here on the floor just beside me.”
Carol attracts you and she catches you. She was telling us about Man Ray, Warhol, Orson Wells, Carlo Mollino, the frogs, …and the asylum and the french kisses…
She started playing with my rags and at that point I was hoping that time would never pass by. We talked again on the phone, we screamed that we were already missing each other.
She is beautiful, inappropriate, provocative, disturbing and generous. A character from all over the top whose art is incomprehensible, obscene and crazy, just like her. I’ve always loved, she says, things and situations that were used to be rejected with.
There is so much to fall in love with, deeply in love – and I did… From that point on, our first meeting, our never-ending story started. A story of handcraft and silks, embroideries and prints, flowers and colors. The warm colors of the sunset in the mornings and dreams of the night.
Shame and transgression, hands and roses, frogs and hands, hands and … “a rose is a rose is a rose” …from dream to nightmare to extravagance, the extravagance of the avant-garde, powerful and front, poetic, languid and crazy and impredictabel as a magma, as an encounter of love, as a memory … dresses and sweaters and shirts as hugs, sometimes reassuring, sometimes too sensual … silks and pleats and prints and secrets … an extension that hides and exalts for an intimate private vision, for a meeting with yourself … for those who have to deal with the follies and deceptions.
Bold colors such as the turquoise of a sky without disorder but filled with flowers and sensual imaginations of antique roses, an orange, warm, hot, bright, direct, so shameless.
Transparent organza, voile and tulle like secrets we do not want to hide, appearing polka dots and bicycle tyres which turn soft, just like surrealist dreams combined with texture sometimes taken from Carol’s pieces of art, some other time freely inspired by her. And hands that hug or tighten or warm or stop …
The jewelry/sculpture born from the meeting of Monica Castiglioni (artist, photographer and designer) and Antonio Marras. Each piece is unique and each element appears to be the fragment of a dictionary which is made up revealing a language.
Objects, rings and necklaces and bracelets, such as prosthesis, present and powerful, visible in their being timeless, enhanced by the luster of bronze.
Pieces conceived for a project which is based on some fundamental connections of the body, Connection between organ and organ, between inside and outside, between full and empty, between visible and invisible, between shyness and arrogance.
Forms that arise from a reference and a definite icon: Carol Rama
Francesca Alfano Miglietti
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Tags: ANTONIO MARRAS, ANTONIO MARRAS SS 2015, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2015
Thu, September 25 2014 » Fashion Blog
WOMAN SUMMER 2015
Ennio Capasa, designer:
Persuing the ideas and immagination of my last Resort collection that was presented in June in New York. For my Summer 2015 collection I twisted rock n’ roll and refiniment to describe the free spirited woman of today, still remaining faithful to the hard-edged sophistication of Costume National.
The “Menhir” of the young artist Antonio Forteleoni, brought me to the “Stonehenge free music festival”. This festival represents at his origin, the place of expression to youth culture in search for change, a natural location to gather and immagine the future. A place where the energy accumulates and renews…
SOPHISTICATED FREEDOM
Fabrics and leathers
Structure and fluidity, double suede with soft leather. Laser cut leather, double silk cotton and silk georgette with contrast seams. Double viscose canvas paired with suedeor with silk cady, ribbon embroideries on tulle and silk georgette. Doubled silk cotton with maxi fringes. Viscose and technological fibers, techno macramè made with ultrasound technique.
Colors
Black, chocolate, purple, indigo, turquoise and dust blue.
Dresses
Laser cut asymmetric strapless with metallic eyelets. Collar neck back cleavage with cornily stitching, flowy double layers. Technical embossed crochet.
Top
Laser cut, asymmetric strapless with rouches. One-shoulder tops with metallic eyelets details. Doubled silk cotton with maxi fringes.
Outerwears
Short and long jackets with fringes and studs on leather in laser cut suede. Trench with contrasting seams. Short or over-the-knee waistcoats with metallic belt loops or with contrasting patchwork seams or with suede inlay.
Pants
Five pocket bottom boyish loose jeans turned up at the bottom, skinny with metallic eyelets details. High waist shorts.
Skirts
Mini evasè or long, as well as pant skirts. Foulard skirt.
Bags
In suede and croco printed and bicolour hayes, metallic details with calf fringes. San Francisco, pochette, BurningBag, shoulder bag. Santa Fe, restructured messenger, Palm Springs, bucket bag with metallic corners.
Shoes and accessories
Sandals with heels, both high and lowing, black cowhide and dark brown with ankle straps or with geometric padding. Tubular boots with contrast seams, wide belts in suede with metallic fibers or in calf with leather chains with satined chains details in plexi. Twill foulard plain silk or with contrasted graphic prints, cowhide leather necklaces and bracelets with black ouches and black stone. Sunglasses in acetate with metallic suspension with exclusive ultra-flat lenses.
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Tags: COSTUME NATIONAL, COSTUME NATIONAL SS 2015, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2015
Thu, September 25 2014 » Fashion Blog
Wed, September 24 2014 » Fashion Blog
