N°21 SPRING SUMMER 2015 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Bourgeois punk, bohemian DIY.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua pursues an experimental crossover path, subverting the rules and forever perfecting his own amazing fashion vision where wickedly provocative spirit and practical put-together mood surging with dissonant elements only on the surface translate into an easy spontaneous idea of elegance.

The force of character is in the open and blatant expressions of friction, the liveliness of mind in the disdain for conventional concepts and chains of command. All against the backdrop of an exquisitely Italian taste for luscious colors and materials, the pure pleasure of sensuous sophistication.

The collection puts a strong cut-up slant on construction, dovetailing pragmatic facets and luxurious effects, playing with and contradicting mere appearances. Army/couture, opulent/functional, daytime/evening, masculine/feminine, severe/sensual take turns setting a clear agenda, yet always complying with instinctive impulses, a free and fanciful aesthetic flair very much about natural desires, scarcely about thought processes.

Precious stones define pins on ladylike pullovers, trace utilitarian slings on mannish organza shirts, dot edgings on long skirts. Nothing is what it seems: little blouse & skirt combos are actually dresses, the military topcoat finds a smart new identity in dress form.

Everything has a special glow: bright sequins make a lavish statement on macramé skirts and jackets, embroidery designs capture all the fun of surrealistic art. High rise pants with a boyish appeal alternate with short top & lace skirt ensembles, tartan patterns come in multiples on organza.

The vertical silhouette’s fulcrum point is the waist, with sturdy stone-encrusted and cabochon-studded leather belts heightening the impact. Non-stretch fabrics (Mackintosh cotton, organza, cigaline, jute cloths) vary in weight while also capitalizing on a gorgeous palette of blush pink, vivid green, khaki, tan and black shades with hints of red.

Lastly, shoes throw the season’s image off balance and re-establish equlibriums, as in the surreal duchesse mules with big bows in rich wine, green and mustard hues.