MSGM SPRING SUMMER 2015 MEN’S COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK
X(ex) Cruel stories of youth.
Showing the video by Motus* “Je me cherche”. “Je veux dire: le rien, le vide, tout le monde le voit partout… mais moi je résiste, j’essaie, je veux que quelque chose arrive. Abolir le temps mort, être en écoute permanent… assumer le risque de s’exposer à la première personne.”
Alghiero Boetti’s beautiful maps as inspiration. His embroidered tapestries. “The infinite Possibilities of Existence”. “Encounters and Challenges”. His free and inventive use of language.
Teddy Boy Grunge: words with strong connotations of the USA of the fifties and sixties for an eighties silhouette. WONDERLUST, GROOVY, MAMAS BOY. Pineapples and Cactus are borrowed from nature, and are turned into prints, embroidery and knits.
Ferns are borrowed from interior décor and turned into clothing. But everything can co-exist, even in a single piece: ferns are interrupted by flags, and flags are interrupted by black&white optical warning tape.
“Signs and Design”. “Give Time to Time”. “Hungry for Wind”. “Attracting Attention”. “For new Desires”.
The cactus are on canvas and batiste. The ferns are on crisp poplin and wool flannel. The spots are on cotton canvas. The hound’s-tooth on linen.
Multicoloured rugby stripes on sweatshirts. The optical flags are on nylon. The gingham is large on piqué polo shirts, and inserted in knitwear. Polos are the new shirts. Shirts are the new sweatshirt. The cotton tunic the new t-shirt.
Wide trousers with darts and wide off-the-shoulder tops. Box shirts and maxi bermuda boxers. The New Comfortable. Pink, mauve, light blue, turquoise, yellow. And beige, blue, military green and black.
This story only has one tune in the background: “I walk alone” by the Californian indie band YACHT.
“I see immense beauty in the work in the Embroidered Map. I had no part in that work, I made no choices, as the world is as it is and I did not design it, flags are what they are and I did not design them. In short, I did absolutely nothing: when the basic idea, the concept appears, everything else is no longer a choice”. A Boetti
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