ANTONIO MARRAS FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

To Milly
A letter. A sentence.
” I know you, madam. I repeat, I know you but only by sight.
I have followed you, sometimes I have observed you at length, never daring to approach you.
I know your outward form, a few moments of your life and, above all, the little knowledge of a soul which a face may reveal to a careful observer.
But it is very little, madam, compared to the immensity of what I should like to know about you “.
A bolt from the blue. And a strong, instinctive, tormenting desire to know more.
Her husky, alluring voice – hard and gentle, harsh and melodic – surprised me, won me over, forced me to stop.
In just a few days I read, saw and listened avidly, intensely, passionately to everything about her.
She doesn’t know me and perhaps this letter will surprise her, but I know her!
I see her in Turin, Milan, France, America and the back, with new success, to Italy, theatre, films, television, recitals, songs.
The relentless passing of time does not take her slowly away from us, like ships we see from the shore. Indeed, it brigs her closer.
Simple and elegant in her sophisticated little sheath dresses, wrapped in voluminous stoles as if to shield herself from human vulgarity. Fascinating and mysterious, discreet and nonchalant, slender and strong, shy and bold.
I immediately saw her as the ideal figure through which notes may introduce themselves to people.
Her ever-present trench coat, her jackets and clothes are pages, books and diaries that tell a story, describe a legend.
Through the layers, the unexpected juxtapositions, the inserts hoarded in her overcoats we can read her memories, interpret the experiences of a real life.
She sings and through her voice Milan rises and take shape. With its thick fog, the smoke, the silence illuminated by the street lights and lights navigating the Naviglio.
“It’s difficult to describe Milan if you were born in the city. Hard to know where to begin, to find a clear, precise image, or a smell, to start with.
The fog, perhaps: the kind that doesn’t exist any more, in town I mean, on its central streets, as it did when I was a little girl and used to go to school enveloped in a kind of off-white cocoon, a glass of Pernod, I’d find years later in a song.
The city belong to me, a desert I know well “.
And she was the interpreter, embodiment, living metaphor of Milan.
Both of them indecipherable, enigmatic, secret, closes within their mysteries and open through sudden smiles which light up the soul.
I will continue to love her and seek her out in dark corners, in the old-style houses of Milan, in the courtyards and roads, in the theatres loved above all else.
Will she read these confused thoughts, these rushed notes, these feelings evoked by a real letter that touched my heart?

Quoten taken from:
Lettera a Milly, Cesare Pavese, Via attraverso le lettere, Einaudi
Lella Costa, La sindrome di Gertrude, Rizzoli

(more…)

Tags: ANTONIO MARRAS, ANTONIO MARRAS FALL WINTER 2012-2013, ANTONIO MARRAS FW 2012-13, BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13

TER ET BANTINE FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Casual and concise as the anti-uniform of revolt – this is Ter et Bantine’s dresscode for Fall Winter 2012-2013.
Manuela Arcari leaves day-to-day items behind to create a wardrobe packed with eccentric elements designed to have a powerful noir impact.
Military style items, geometrical expansions and a Gothic repertoire are recurrent traits that multiply and add on to generate the desired dramatic silhouettes.
The color palette featuring shadowy hues is countered by a few dazzling white items.
The dark vortex is built on every imaginable texture, namely leather, suede, row wool, bristly synthetics with wet-effect highlights, such as animal skin and satin weave.
The hi-tech style provides them with an opportunity for juxtaposition. Furs, artful embroidery on ripped fabrics and hypnotic patterns flock-printed on cloth are arranged as recuperated inserts of skilled tailoring on a flawless backdrop.
Ample coats and skirt suits find their counterparts in clear cut dresses and tops that stand out against male trousers.
The boy is concealed for a self-absorbed, Gothic feminine allure.

(more…)

Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, TER ET BANTINE, TER ET BANTINE FALL WINTER 2012-2013, TER ET BANTINE FW 2012-13

MILA SCHÖN FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

For Fall/Winter 2013, Bianca Gervasio, Creative Director of Mila Schön, has focused her vision on evoking a modern antithesis: the seemingly irreconcilable difference between two lifestyles, the ethical and the aesthetic. A major inspiration is the philosophy of Kierkegaard and the celebration of independence and freedom of choice.
The Existentialist themes seen throughout the collection also channel Simone de Beauvoir as the symbol of an elegantly balanced and feminine collection in which ethics are enriched with the aesthetics of refinement and charming beauty.
Black and white optical effects enhance the palette of natural tones, bright colors and vivid metallic finishes. Inspired by an original design from the archives is a new refined and luxuriant print, where miniature foliage alternates with macro 3D effects. This gives way to sophisticated bi-chromatic blends, while the iconic leaf returns in the shape of decorative brooches and alamari frog closures.
Graphic silhouettes, geometric motifs, sinuous profiles, precise pleats and inlaid chevrons exemplify the clean equilibrium distinctive of the House. Together with double fabrics there are embroidered wool with tiny three-dimensional spheres and creponne with little golden leaves in fil coupé. Worldly winter souls are then enveloped in stoles, capes and mid-length furs including raccoon in degradé tones or free-flowing layers of lustrous fox.
An ethereal and ultra-glamorous take from the Mila Schön archive, the Swan Dress, is recreated with a tulle and organza base embellished with embroidered leaves that have been laser-cut and then meticulously pleated, ironed and sewn by hand using golden thread in a process that requires two days to complete.
Booties and loafers have tortoise heels, a stylish indulgence that ties in leather belts and metal jewelry and stands out in evening clutches, precious treasures that embody modern vanity also interpreted in shiny metallic laminates.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, MILA SCHÖN, MILA SCHÖN FALL WINTER 2012-2013, MILA SCHÖN FW 2012-13

EMPORIO ARMANI FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

LITTLE WINTER FOLLIES
A play on clothes, fun little touches of pure fantasy: the more the search for form is calibrated, the more the collection becomes a surprising interpretation of pieces, mixed with lightness and freedom.
The common element, which completely changes the silhouette, are the trousers that end at the knee with a brand new cuff-effect, finished off as always with opaque hose. The jackets have straight, masculine shoulders that give a sense of strength to a soft, unstructured line, which is also seen in the cardigans. The colour palette, which includes black, white, Indian red and amethyst blue, has the iridescence of velvet, and is also reflected in the abstract brushstroke-effect print.
Valance and large flat taffeta roses create surprising effects: constructing technical garments that seem as thick as a fur coat, with smooth sleeves (still in taffeta). Just two of these flattened roses are needed to close a blouse: a functional decoration, used also for knitted and low-cut dresses made all the more unpredictable by the addition of Bermudas.
The entire collection is animated by fun, ironic touches, infusing lightness, and which, like true folies d’hiver, allude to the style of the Roaring Twenties: belts that create mini-basques, worn occasionally two at a time; tulle T-shirts with sequinned stripes; fringes; sequins embroidered onto tulle; basques; and jet necklaces.
Extraordinary bags and shoes: long, tambourine-shaped shoulder bags, like huge powder compacts; handbags of floral velvet or velvet combined with net mesh. Flat slippers with floral fabric toes, and shiny masculine lace-up shoes.

(more…)

Tags: EMPORIO ARMANI, EMPORIO ARMANI F/W 2012-13, EMPORIO ARMANI FALL WINTER 2012-2013, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13

C’N'C COSTUME NATIONAL FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

For the CNC Costume National FW 2012/2013 Collection, Ennio Capasa has imagined a woman in a virtual metropolis, mixing and matching street-wear and evening wear.
He has re-interpreted parkas, bikers and tuxedo focusing on the contrast between different textures and light. These young women who cross the city in seven-league boots are post-punk, post-chic but above all tecnological.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, COSTUME NATIONAL, COSTUME NATIONAL FALL WINTER 2012 2013, COSTUME NATIONAL FW 2012-13, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13

ICEBERG FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

The attitude, strong personality of Marianne Faithfull: Iceberg brings back glam sportswear in a big way, declaring shapes and textures the protagonists of the collection. The woman who in recent seasons drew inspiration from the male wardrobe now plays consciously with her femininity by making the most of proportions. She opts for slim silhouettes, then adds jackets in soft warm volumes.
Parkas, coats and furs conceal artful knit&jewel-embroidery mixes. A powerful feel for materials – as in combos of wool, leather and sheepskin – takes turns with gorgeous double crepe and silk fabrics.
Kaleidoscopic prints with a contemporary digital slant paint absolute black with lacquer blue, off white and tangerine orange colors.
Metals make a fine statement in the form of jewelry.

(more…)

Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, ICEBERG, ICEBERG FALL WINTER 2012 2013, ICEBERG FW 2012-12

AIGNER FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

ARTE FACTUM
The inspiration for the Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 collection is the fervid artistic atmosphere of the 30’s. Art Decò that in the early years of the last century influenced fashion, art and architecture, is perfectly embodied in the works of the Polish artist Tamara de Lempicka her paintings emanate a strong and expressive femininity making them the undisputed font for the new Aigner collection.
The brand has chosen to bring to life the strength, security and elegance of the women depicted by Tamara de Lempicka, offering as contemporary examples of the style androgynous, internationally famous actresses such as Isabella Rossellini, Tilda Swinton and Anjelica Huston.
Using these basics as a starting point, Aigner has produced a perfect synthesis between elegance and sobriety “Understatement” is the key word for the next season. The brand plays with volume and silhouette, inspired by the forms and figures in the Polish artists works: The result is a mix of rigid forms and flowing textiles.
The models are well defined and the borders emphasised. Aigner offers wide necklines with embroidery in crystal, knee-length skirts and dresses for daywear, high waist trousers and skirts, slim fit dresses in fluid jersey, large coats, short or extra long trench coats, and riding trousers.
As always particular attention has been given to the quality of the material used, the brand has chosen silk jersey, silk voile, crepe wool, Milan knit, satin silk, sheep skin and mink. The choice to combine natural materials with synthetics is due to the brands desire to reproduce the style and the design techniques used during the 30’s.
Offering a varied palette of colours Aigner has let loose their creativity: crystal blue, inspired by the Ceylon sapphires which were very fashionable in the 30’s, ivory and off white, taupe, mahogany, olive green, forest green, electric blue, blackberry, rose, grape and black.

(more…)

Tags: AIGNER, AIGNER FALL WINTER 2012-2013, AINGNER FW 2012-13, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13

LES COPAINS FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

The 2012 Les Copains Collection, designed by Alessandro Dell’Acqua, inspired by Lisa Fonssagrives Penn, the muse of some of the top master photographers (like Richard Avedon, Man Ray e Irving Penn) frames a couture symbiosis between materials and style, enhancing elegance and sensuality.
It’s all about subtle seduction through the evocation of graphic silhouettes, the marked waist lines, the winter colors: grey, forest green, black, purple.
A mohair dress trimmed with swaroski and studs on the neckline and a masculine check detail. On the coats plaid is combined with tribal kidassia or Mongolian furs intarsia on the knitwear. The little black dress trimmed with plisse’ both in knit.
The same effect is also seen in the furs sewn on an organza base. Knitwear, in all of its expressions, is at the highest level and always in the tradition of Les Copains. On the dresses knitwear ribbing gently design the silhouette of the body combined with double face satin on pencil skirts.
Super lightweight alpaca for the almost transparent pullover to be worn over a micro cardigan. The jersey takes on a felt look when over a rib knit dress, all laser cut with picot finishing. The popcorn stitch micro pull is decorated with floral embroideries in metal and jais. Crystal snowflakes materialize like in wonderland on maxi pullovers with baby alpaca cables. Knots in knitwear embroidered by hand intertwine made to look like fur on a dress with a trompe l’oeil effect. For a skirt a thick layer of laminated sequins create a sparkling twist. Hats in knitwear are wrapped in tulle.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua designs for Les Copains a refined collection where each piece evokes the tradition and vision of the Maison.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, LES COPAINS, LES COPAINS FALL WINTER 2012-2013, LES COPAINS FW 2012-13

MOSCHINO FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Swinging Parade
A parade atmosphere, a fantastic vision of colored soldiers and “pop” uniforms introduce the new Moschino Fall/Winter 2012-13 collection.
Overcoats and jackets like uniform, made of wool crepe and decorated with cloth and crystal braids for a strong graphic impact. Dresses in marabou and Mikado and jersey appear on mini suits and cocktail dresses.
The indispensable biker jacket. The silhouettes is slim and structured, with legs showing or with fitted pants. It is redefined with large black taffeta bows that hold back hair and re-shape it. Colors are solid and vibrant, from red to sunny yellow and from deep blue to fuchsia.
The palette is rounded out with classic black and white. Finally, gold touches shine in the details for evening wear: large sequins on short dresses, embroidery and trim on jackets and precious capes. Accessories take on a distinctive role: handbags, bold bracelets and earrings that repeat the quilted detailing. Super high platforms are strictly black with large golden studs.
An original ”Swinging Parade” that, in true Moschino style, overturns and recombines the canons of fashion and conventions, creating looks with impeccable tailoring style.

(more…)

Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FALL WINTER 2012-2013, MOSCHINO FW 2012-13

KRIZIA FALL WINTER WOMEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Sobriety, and the odd surprise
Silhouettes grow longer, both in overcoats and in evening dresses, with a mysterious, priestly look (like the long icon-dresses emerging from the shadowy
background of a Piero Pizzi Cannella painting), and certainly suave with their silks and laminates. But all seriousness is soon contradicted by the long splits that reveal the entire length of the leg with each step; by top-stitching borrowed from a more casual wardrobe; by cheeky Mongolian fur shoulders on necklines (o waistcoats); by feisty leather or neoprene bodices; or by a single leather shoulder strap supporting an entire draping.
Shoulders are large and slightly raised (not only in jackets and overcoats, but even in a sheath dress), emphasizing the otherwise close-fitting silhouette, which is further tightened by leather strap harnesses, borrowed from certain types of work clothes; contrasting top-stitching and protective padding give garments a thickness feel, as if they were sculpted.
Cuts are carefully designed to follow the body’s anatomy. Contrasting inverted pleats take us by surprise, even in certain pants.
Other close-fitting trousers feature a low crotch, but there are also some glossy coated tight black jeans. Whimsical leather shoulders on a draped silk dress or on oversized knitwear in kid mohair; snug poncho-scarves; not to be missed is the gold lamé pant suit, a triumph of horizontal plissés.
Materials: this winter’s denim features contrasting top-stitching, ennobled by combining it with cashmere. Wools. Plenty of Mongolian fur in sleeves, gaiters, collars, shoulders, shrugs and even bags. Kid mohair, lamé, viscose, knitwear with fisherman’s ribbing. Silk, cady, georgette, chiffon, beads. Brown leather, neoprene. Animalier inlaying with cartoon-style tigers and panthers (also found in costume jewelery).
Golden accessories (pochettes, sandals, half boots…).
The soundtrack for the fashion show includes a tribute to the memory of the great Whitney Houston, a homage to this beautiful and talented singer and actress who, as it happens, loved to wear Krizia.

(more…)

Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13, KRIZIA, KRIZIA F/W 2012-13, KRIZIA FALL WINTER 2012-2013