DSQUARED2 FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

“NAUGHTY STUDENTS OR BAD TEACHERS?”

The FW 2012/13 Dsquared² collection is inspired by University students and in particular by one special kind of student: GOOD FAMILY, BAD REPUTATION!
Radical chic party boys from high society, foul-mouthed bourgeois students who work real hard on having a good time. Boys who spend more time on their clothes than on books but that is no big deal since they will graduate no matter what.
The Dsquared² boy certainly doesn’t excel at school but he is definitely the coolest one on campus.
This time around, the silhouette is the novelty. Very low-waist slim cut trousers that create a “bottle silhouette”: very tight pants, tighter than ever, fitted around the knee and slightly wider at the bottom are paired with short, tight jackets.
Once again, layering is key; layers on top of layers to fight the cold but most importantly because every detail is meticulously chosen after hours of study; outside the library of course…
New classic: argyle sweaters or in brushed mohair, turtlenecks, tweed jackets and tuxedo jackets paired with washed denim, military mods-style parkas reminiscent of student strikes…
Classic pieces are customized with markers, and a variety of studs (stars, labels, maple leafs,..) randomly found from old Dsquared² jackets, reused to personalize garments.
Boobou jackets in oiled fabric or suede with large pockets that always come in handy.
Accessories: “woody” eyewear glasses in transparent plastic and wood for the “perfect” student; without forgetting fun sunglasses to hide dark circles after a wild on-campus party.
Scarves, gloves and a military beret with a leather visor.
Vintage-like suede pointed or round tip ankle boots, in brown or grey, in leather or patent leather.
The colour palette: beige, camel, military green, denim blue, grey, black with glimpses of red and white.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, DSQUARED2, DSQUARED2 F/W 2012-13, DSQUARED2 F/W 2012-13 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13

EMPORIO ARMANI FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

ESSENTIAL

A collection that could be defined as being all about the interior world of the wearer.
The austere expression of deep, conceptual sentiments, revealing the essence of a style that is pure to its very roots. Having surpassed the synthetic brilliance of nylon and the ease of sportswear, only the compact opaqueness of wool remains.
The depths of black, ebony-brown, anthracite and smoke-grey are occasionally emphasized by an unexpected contrasting white cloth lining. The duffle coat is back, this time with Emporio Armani proportions (the length is 125cm). Pea coats in triple-overlapping cloth have a generous shape, while the deconstructed jackets are more long-line. The shirts show an extraordinary attention to detail, with a touch of flannel, or other contrasting cloth, at the neck and wrists. Softest sheepskin and magnificent double leather make up generous garments with a hidden double- breasted closure. The unusual tone-on-tone digital print suggests the veining of a tree trunk, adding imperceptible vibrations of colour to dark velvets.
A collection of essential colours and garments, reflecting a discipline of thought and conduct. The severity is accentuated by the clean lines of the bags, briefcases and striking, large, rigid berets.

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Tags: EMPORIO ARMANI, EMPORIO ARMANI F/W 2012-13, EMPORIO ARMANI F/W 2012-13 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS MEN’S COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2012 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

The Dirk Bikkembergs man of winter 2012/13 lives in a future where simplicity is the strong point of his wardrobe. In this collection there is a constant striving towards reinterpreting the style of the fashion house, which is visible in the meticulous study of the shape, the painstaking research on details and the physical presence, which is emphasized but never overexposed. On the catwalk, the men carry with them the historical DNA of the brand, with an all-round contemporary awareness: the perfection of the sportsman coincides with the conceptual balance of good looks.
On show, jerkins and coatswhere whose impeccable craftsmanship is seen not only from the lining, but is revealed by exposed outer zips and by the contrasting thread that outlines the skeleton. Thus, the structure of the garment becomes the basis for discreet graphic elements of deconstructed jackets, reefer jackets with a linear cut and reworked windbreakers. Effects of multiple materials and warm/cold contrasts run through the whole collection: the softness of cashmere is combined with the stiffness of technical fabrics, fine leathers and rich wools. On the other hand, there is a certain linearity in the colours: (non) blacks, very dark greens and blues, smoky greens. Nuances to mix and layer, a chromatic certainty pondered thoroughly.
Also, a reference to casual rigorousness, with vaguely retro shapes reinterpreted through a metropolitan style, such as the gabardine trench coats and jerkins with severe lines, double zips and inner pockets concealed between two layers: a perfect balance between a formal and refined external look and a sporty mood on the inside. The trousers follow a fairly soft line and are often cut like jeans. They are hybrid as well, with a slightly lowered crotch and in some cases a more regular fit. A new interpretation of the fit is also visible in the volumes, which are always very balanced. In addition, leather jerkins and modern suits of armour enhanced by the brand’s favourite details: maxi-pockets, large zips and exposed woollen inserts. For knitwear, oblique effects, thick cables and beautiful graphic motifs created by exposed seams. Wool and nylon technical cardigans and seamless cashmere crewnecks. Even the classic model of the sweatshirt is offered in cashmere: the absolute conjunction of elegance and casual comfort. The evening is opulent: beaver furs, sweaters worn on the skin in gold and violet lurex. Tuxedos, hints of velvet, cotton and technical fabric sweaters enhanced by leather inserts.
As far as accessories go, leather tote and weekend bags are offered in the most classic sizes, in shades that go from black to mud, via a very dark green. The wool hats take the classic baseball and riding caps as inspiration.

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Tags: DIRK BIKKEMBERGS, DIRK BIKKEMBERGS F/W 2012, DIRK BIKKEMBERGS F/W 2012 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13

ICEBERG FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Modern Times, Charlie Chaplin.

Iceberg invents a colorful slant on Modern Times, the black&white film that Charlie Chaplin directed and starred in.
Craftsmanship, pure manual and technical prowess find expression in an up-to-date collection with traditional British flair where hand knits meet classic prince of wales, houndstooth check and other favorite men’s fabrics.
Heavy melton is reworked and pressed with leather, needlepunched with nylon to set the bases for a totally today tech style.
Cottons and cashmeres come in a palette of indigo blue, wine red, green and beige hues. Touches of gold and silver add a contemporary glam allure.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, ICEBERG, ICEBERG F/W 2012-13, ICEBERG F/W 2012-13 MEN

NICOLE FARHI MEN’S AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

NICOLE FARHI celebrates its 30th Anniversary in 2012 with a menswear collection ideal for the modern world traveler doing his own urban Grand Tour for the 21st Century. The look is layered, adaptable and functional for journeys that encompass colder northern cities and tropical climates.
The NICOLE FARHI men’s collection is one of unexpected combinations inspired by traditional and modern techniques from around the world. A Scandinavian sweater is knitted in a way that is very similar to kilim making while a traditional Aran jumper is reworked with tye dye and a jersey t-shirt boasts pop Hawaiian prints. A classic over coat is realized using the Indian Kantha quilting technique. An original William Morris artwork sourced from the Liberty archives is needle punched into flannel jackets or cut into strips and knitted into sweaters.
The color palette is strong with china blue and oxblood sitting alongside cream, off white, charcoal, slate and black.
The raincoats, parkas and overcoats are worn over pyjama style long sleeved tops, a feather light cardigan sits snugly under a china blue wool hooded overcoat. A modern smoking jacket in the customized Liberty print is worn with narrow trousers and loafers, the perfect footwear for the frequent flyer.
For this travel inspired collection NICOLE FARHI has collaborated with British luggage maker Globe Trotter to create a travel case made from vulcanized fiber board, a technique developed in the late 19th Century, transforming this classic piece into a rucksack for the smart and resourceful traveler.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, NICOLE FARHI, NICOLE FARHI F/W 2012, NICOLE FARHI F/W 2012 MEN

GAZZARRINI FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

IT’S SO SIMPLE

A travel that starts from the tradition, that retraces know streets, even if renewed.
The inspiration born here: from elements and characteristics that recall Bruges. Its colours, its romantic and gloomy atmospheres.
White of the swans, red of bricks, the geometry of constructions, architectures.
A direct reference to the old tradition, to the hand-craft taste, that makes each production exciting.
It is the tailoring effect: that characterizes Gazzarrini as ‘ Maison Industrielle ‘ , it begins from the building’s architectural, roofs, bridges and it reaches the creation of the cloth; heraldic depiction and laces woof are read in a modern view. Each part of the romantic iconography gets appearance of the style pattern.
Tradition and very warm works and felts are mixed with angora or cashmere declined in a endless shadow of greys, greens, until mud-colour creating games of depth and intensity. Structured nylons or coloured sheepskin insets tell a story that is an ensemble of cultures and traditions: unique way of interpreting the present.
Games of prices offer a tridimentional silhouette. Heraldy and aristocratic traditional nuances create shirts in delicate colours: green, grey and camel which cope with yellow and active rose high-neck mohair that can be worn with a jacket.
Flannels and gaberdine are revised in shape and perfomant volume and underline the urban technicality of trousers: a sport concept applied to the elegance where the must is represented by thin elastic cotton.
Gazzarrini wants to travel the stree of ” contemporary tailoring ” with its own connotations.
Carefully cuts, that look after the tridimensionality of the figure. The elegance that springs from the balance of lines that melt in a sinuous movement.
The formal is deconstructed and the informal becomes elegance.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, GAZZARRINI, GAZZARRINI F/W 2012-13, GAZZARRINI F/W 2012-13 MEN

ERMANNO SCERVINO FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

ROCK ROYAL

Ermanno Scervino brings us the Rock Royal style for next winter. Modern Italian sartorial craftsmanship meets English inspiration. Argyle knitwear and stripes under tailored garments.
The House’s exclusive fabrics and the stretch boiled wool are the centerpieces of fitted yet soft jackets and overcoats. Experimentation of new comfortable knit fabrics doubled with plain knit.
The check prints -from Prince of Wales to micro and maxi houndstooth– blend together pairing perfectly on coats, jackets and scarves. Similarly, the worn cotton parkas are doubled in Kalgan fur with argyle insets. The sporty jackets in Prince of Wales check or houndstooth with plunge nappa leather detailing trade off with double worked, woollen cloth tailored coats with visible selvedge. The military inspired woollen cloth outerwear is raw cut with patches and contrast stitching.
Toying with mix and match, the loose, high collar shirts present unusual pairings of stripes and rhombuses, at times resembling jackets, but worked with knitting needles, or at others, appearing as cardigans with fur stitch collars. The white pant becomes the guiding line of next winter’s new look.
Black for evening. Double cloth coats and tuxedo jackets with plastron and lapels in velvet and satin. Jackets marry pilor with macramè yielding a worn effect as the result of being crafted by hand.
The shirts are white with pleats and ribbing. The silk scarf is black and white striped.
Accessories: scarves in special hides and velvet with an aged look, as well as new ankle boots in goat fur.
Scarves in the collection’s fabrics or in double suede with cashmere/silk knit.
Colors: melange and anthracite greys, army green, shades of burnt brown, blues and blacks. Hints of light blue on the inside of the technical bomber jackets and the Oxford shirts. Points of red and yellow on the finishing of coats and shirts.

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Tags: BACKSTAGE, ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13

BALLY MEN’S AUTUMN/WINTER 2012 COLLECTION – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Every journey begins a single step and in the quest for grand adventure and excellence, Bally’s Creative Directors Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler have created a men’s collection for Autumn/Winter 2012 imbued with the spirit of a life lived outdoors that is charged with exhilarating journeys and inspiring pursuits.
In a collection dominated by technical detail, durable finishes and exceptional craftsmanship, it was never more certain that Bally owns winter: for the distinct and water repellant waxed suede and calf leather of the shoe collection; to the waterproof zippers and fold-over magnetic closure of the bags designed to protect from the elements; through to the highly technical detail of the outerwear distinguished by cleverly constructed pieces notable for their innovative use of leather and technical fabrics. Designed to protect the urban traveler from the elements, the outerwear includes impressive pieces such as a rich calf leather storm coat backed with Shetland wool twill. A subtle gold and silver leaf print dominates the garments and a special weather beaten effects completes the look that matches the worldly smarts of Bally’s trailblazing adventurer.
The shoe collection is founded on Bally’s signature Scribe with its renowned craftsmanship and Goodyear-welting. Blake construction has been introduced to a range of high quality dress office shoes for smart seasonal style. Bally has increased its focus on relaxed men’s moccasins and together with curling boot that was completely re-engineered for winter 2011, every man is covered no matter his walk of life.
The theme of outdoor adventure continues with the men’s bags featuring highly robust luggage, messengers and crossbody bags all designed for extreme durability as our urban explorer moves through his daily life.
Each pieces of Bally’s Autumn/Winter 2012 men’s collection has been designed with exacting purpose and precisely constructed in the Swiss brand’s fine craftsmanship traditions, reflecting demanding adventures through the weathered Swiss alps whose raw beauty is spectacularly outlined by winter snow.
Colours: black, chocolate, toffee, old silver, old gold and bronze.

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Tags: BALLY, BALLY F/W 2012, BALLY F/W 2012 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13

ROBERTO CAVALLI FALL WINTER MEN’S COLLECTION 2012-13 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

Inspirations of the Roberto Cavalli Man for the Autumn-Winter 2012/2013 collection unfold like a fable. Oneiric, ironic and philosophical, with touches of Tarantino; it is narrated as if by an ancient parchment, given to the fashion show. With dream like accompaniment by the blues chords and dissonances of one-man band Son of Dave, performing live on the runway amidst this shadow play. His music bewitches like a snake charmer, enchanting four animal-like men; incarnations and metaphors of the natural elements: air, earth, water, fire; definite personifications of the multifaceted soul of next season’s Roberto Cavalli man. The elements transform the wardrobe, giving life to the various themes of the show.
It begins with animalier patterns- the starting point of the collection – which in spires the design of patterns, prints and embroidery, shaking up the customary sartorial habits. Fabrics and patters are renewed through the use of three-dimensional effects that resemble imperceptible natural tattoos.
Crocodile skin is used not only as a material for extremely precious smoking jackets—the scales themselves are printed on velvet, also lending their texture to the smoking jackets, and giving new life to jeans. Tiger print, on the other hand, abandons its theatrical presence, plays a more low-key role: cutouts and stitching on matelassé bikers, cashmere capes, or the jacquard from the knitwear. Snake is still present, used for profiles and snake print details.
Feathers play a significant role, revisited in black and white photographic prints, micro to macro, on silk, often rendered even more precious by the application of real feathers and aigrettes. At times magnified, creating a new kind of spotted-pattern with a graphic and masculine allure.
Cheviot stripes are still present, as are pinstripes (appearing this time out on denim), English wool and the more classical chevron. Lapels of dinner jackets are embroidered with crystals, returning to their traditionally smaller form in silk and cashmere, or recreated directly on the garments through skilful sartorial cutting.
Suits and urban-suits take inspiration from traditional tailoring. The silhouettes however, present an abrupt lightness, as if caressed by a desert wind, the same wind that influences the choice of textiles and wearability, unexpectedly more fluid and relaxed compared to the formal precision of the past seasons. There is an evolution – rather than a revolution – of the fit: underlined by a slightly narrower shoulder, trousers sitting looser on the thighs, refined shirts from pashmina, and destructured coats with raglan sleeves.
The hint of a sophisticated oriental zephyr. Found also in particular details: the fine threaded embroideries, or the cornelly profiles gently worked like ottoman calligraphy. The palette is composed of nocturnal and eerie tones inspired by blues music, which fade into nuances of saturated colors darkly tinted, like blacks, grays and blues, harmoniously clashing with unexpected flashes of acid yellow, antique pink or sugar cane.
Essential leather Chelsea boots, which are also worn over the pants, and slippers, entirely embroidered with real feathers, as are the sashes and thin scarves that are left gently draping under the smoking jackets. Braided leather, snake, fabric and metal belts like Berber jewels, felt hats and necklaces with rock crystals, onyx and solid stone with the tressé python emblems.

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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, Roberto Cavalli, ROBERTO CAVALLI F/W 2012-13, ROBERTO CAVALLI F/W 2012-13 MEN

JOHN VARVATOS MEN’S COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2012 – MILANO FASHION WEEK

For Fall/Winter 2012 Collection John Varvatos was inspired by the city of New York, with its seamless juxtaposition of the old and the new: a place where Central Park and the Guggenheim, the Chrysler building and the Statue of Liberty melt into one, creating a unique urban texture.
Silhouette softly precise. The look is clean and nonchalant, elegant and easy. The accent is on single pieces as building blocks of the outfits: trademark layering leaves way to a restrained take on dressing up that is soulful as opposed to stark.
Jackets and outerwear textured and light. Reverse cutaway jackets and coats with leather details completely devoid of any filling create a smooth, dynamic line. Short coats have the easy softness of a knit, but are in fact tailored. Suit jackets, either single or double breasted, button up asymmetrically, with a sophisticated effect. Subtle details alter the aspect of wardrobe staples: a zipper running along the raglan of a trench coat sleeve, grommets on sleeve cuffs, a leather multi wrap belt on the pea coat. Vest add a gentlemanly touch.
Knitwear chunky yet weightless. Knitwear is the key element of the pure and individual look. Sweaters turn into a way of being and are used either as outerwear or not: cold-dyed wool and cashmere jumpers and zippered coats, tricot short coats in mixes of fine and chunky yarns, hombre alpaca sweaters; light knitted jackets in morphing patterns.
Trousers relaxed and easy. Tailored pants have a new line: the articulated knee and a small tab at the hem allows them to be worn easily inside or outside of boots.
Leather roughly precious. Long or curly haired burnished shearling is used for short coats and vest worn on top suits. Brushed calfskin blusons with a pony skin effect have a precise, militaristic allure.
Shirts elongated and elegant. Mean to be worn outside of trousers, even with suits and vest, wing collared shirts are longer on the front, with a reverse cutaway effect, creating a soulful counterpoint to the look.

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Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13, JOHN VARVATOS, JOHN VARVATOS F/W 2012, JOHN VARVATOS F/W 2012 MEN