Mon, March 23 2020 » Fashion Blog
LOUIS VUITTON FALL WINTER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Time Clash
Collisions of time. What if all of the innumerable eras that nourish fashion could come together in the here and now? And what if, in the present moment, we could confront history with contemporary freedoms, staged for the pure pleasure of fashion? A clash of styles, unexpected pairings, subverted functions… Dressing without protocol.
Going from old to new and from unprecedented to patrimonial. Anachronism becomes an attitude. Testing one’s agility with respect to a wardrobe. This collection is like a sartorial tune-up in which personality takes precedence: everyone can pen their own history.
The 200 characters in the historic grandstand are the work of Milena Canonero, Stanley Kubrick’s Designer of Costumes, who worked on “A Clockwork Orange”, “Barry Lyndon” and “The Shining”. Some 200 characters range from the 15th century to 1950.
The music was composed by Woodkid and Bryce Dessner. The piece’s title, “Three Hundred and Twenty”, refers to the number of years between the various movements referenced in a baroque composition injected with minimalistic, repetitive musical verses.
It resurrects Nicolas de Grigny, a contemporary of Bach who never won the recognition of his peers, and never played at the Louvre. In fitting with this clashing of times, today – centuries later – we are listening to Nicolas de Grigny at the Louvre.
Mon, March 23 2020 » Fashion Blog
Mon, March 23 2020 » Fashion Blog
Thu, March 12 2020 » Fashion Blog
CHANEL FALL WINTER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
“A very simple, very pure momentum. Romanticism but without any flourishes. Emotions but without any frills,” explains Virginie Viard. “Movement, air… For the runway show, no frame. I don’t like framing.” Freedom, energy, desire for the absolute. Gabrielle Chanel – always – whose racehorse was called ‘Romantica’, the film Les Biches by Chabrol for his Parisiennes who are as feminine as they are amazones, and a photo of Karl Lagerfeld wearing a striped suit with riding boots.
For this CHANEL Fall-Winter 2020/21 Ready-to-Wear collection, “almost no dresses, just casaques (jockey silks). Jodhpurs that open over seven-league boots, a nod to those belonging to Karl. For the first time there are press studs on the suits for a more lively gesture,” continues Virginie Viard. Lots of black and white. Just a few touches of pale green and the emblematic pink of the House. A softness. An outline, punctured with imposing jewellery.
“I love CHANEL so much, this collection could only be a new ode.”
Wed, March 11 2020 » Fashion Blog
HERMÈS FALL WINTER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
Moving through a forest of ver tical bars, she leaps. Moving forward to play. Seize the white contrast with the red. Contemplate their rhythm and poetry against the blue.
Relish the powerful harmony which scores a fresh palette. Declare the primary colours as a manifesto of purism.
What is useful must be beautiful. We invent a style to change us. Nothing is a small gesture. At the end of this search, a balance shall be found.
Tue, March 10 2020 » Fashion Blog
VALENTINO FALL WINTER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
All humans are different, and are all the same: there is a magnificent contradiction in such an acknowledgment. What makes us different from one another is what brings humanity together as a one.
This collection stems from the desire to focus on the humanity of individuals to depict and exalt their feelings and emotions, despite age, gender, race and disposition. The codes of classicism and uniform dressing are the instruments Pierpaolo Piccioli chose to promote equality.
There is another contradiction going on here, and a powerfully human one. Uniforms are usually perceived as items that erase individuality. On a closer insight, however, uniforms bring the individual to the fore. Strict and efficient, the dress disappears, while the face, the gestures and the manners are truly felt, bringing out the human being in all of his or her splendor.
Tailored daywear fabrics in a palette made of blacks, blues and greys that flesh into vertical silhouettes grounded on vigorous shoes. Pierpaolo Piccioli portrays the humans that he likes equally, and dresses them in a harmony of shapes and textures that materialize a shifting and opening of codes. Known symbols usually associated with menswear such as tailoring, uniforms, black leather and the color grey, gain delicacy as decisive yet silent gestures erase dogmas with an idea of fluidity.
Sensuality shines through apparent severity and accessories. Couture in craft, the Valentino Garavani Atelier bag brims with petals, flowers, bows and studs that are a mix of the historic and contemporary Valentino signs. Black eyes, noses, mouths and hands narrate tales of the senses on cabochon-encrusted jewels.
By abolishing excess, as Marlene Dumas depicts by washing out black ink to portray an infinity of different faces, a harmony of differences arises.
Tue, March 10 2020 » Fashion Blog
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FALL WINTER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
“The collection is a love letter to women and to families, colleagues and friends. We went to Wales and were inspired by the warmth of its artistic and poetic heritage, by its folklore and the soul of its craft. The woman is courageous, grounded, bold: heroic. There is a sense of protection in the clothes, of safety and comfort, evoked through quilting and blankets. The hearts are a symbol of togetherness, of being there for others.”
Sarah Burton
Creative Director
Tue, March 10 2020 » Fashion Blog
Mon, March 9 2020 » Fashion Blog
SACAI FALL WINTER 2020 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK
The Sacai 2020 Autumn & Winter collection brings Chitose Abe’s exploration of silhouettes beyond their visual 3 dimensional forms. Playing with the idea of movement, silhouettes are seemingly one shape when standing still and change when in motion, the imperceptible contrasting weights in fabric create a surprising effect.⠀
⠀
A men’s pantsuit when stationary becomes a flowing dress as the wearer starts to walk. A familiar vocabulary of masculine clothing archetype + elegant couture-like femininity this time translates into a tweed Chesterfield coat melded with a satin ‘lady dress’ complete with playful, ironic jewellery details or with panels of the dress re-appropriated to add volume to a jacket.
The straps traditionally found as functional details on a duffle coat are re-contextualised as a strap to gather the pant cuff of a pantsuit dress hybrid, to alter the anticipated silhouette when in motion. Nordic sweater patterns are re-imagined as devore velvet thereby responding differently and making an unanticipated shape when moving.
A simple ribbed knit dress transforms into a heavier weight pant and chiffon combination on turning. The zip used to alter silhouette. Riffing on the notion of exploration beyond the third dimension with a series of NASA’s cosmic images appearing as prints.
Prints and textiles from the archive of American design icon Alexander Girard re-coloured and re-imagined for the house of sacai.
Mon, March 9 2020 » Fashion Blog
