For a romantic uniform in a woman’s world, the Fall/Winter 2018-19 Collection is a mirror of softness and strength. The lines of architecture are intertwined with wistful notions of urban femininity with an outdoor edge, in a palette of navy, black, moss green, camel, claret, ivory and blushing pink.
A box shoulder creates a framework for capes -shoulder slips- and belted coats that fall with a planed sleeve, zipping open at the hip in a cascade of sunray pleating. Trompe l’oeil yoke details create delicate hybrids within a single garment. Tailoring fabrics define the city attitude of slim coats and skirt suits in Prince of Wales checks, grisaille wool and glazed canvas.
Pondering the simple elegance of a lady’s handkerchief, pleated silk dresses and scalloped blouses are adorned with needlepoint collars and encrusted lace. The diamond becomes a leitmotif in print, texture and construction, from FENDI argyle knitwear to plush intarsias and a dramatic latticework of beaded fringes. In bright pebbled calfskin, stamped leather or satin, pointed Western boots rise to mid-calf or knee length featuring a double Cuban heel.
This Collection sees the debut of the Double F bag, a two-sided chain bag featuring ‘F’ corner frames on one side, and the round FENDI stamp on the other. A new unstructured Peekaboo X-Lite bag is defined by a soft construction and contrasting internal pocket popping in precious leather, pastel calfskin or iconic FF.
The Women’s Fall/Winter 2018-19 Collection includes the FENDI/FILA logo created by the artist @hey_reilly, re-appropriated by the House across ready-to-wear and accessories.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, FENDI, FENDI FW 2018-19
Tue, February 27 2018 » Fashion Blog
Culture and counterculture; icons and iconoclasts; trophies and tropes; meanings and messages that time turns on their heads. Back in the day, Max Mara devised a code for women on the move. So called power dressing offered the keys to the executive suite. The price was strict conformity; self-expression wasn’t part of the deal for Working Girl.
Twenty or thirty oors below, in shadowy subterranean nightclubs, the style tribes’ studs, straps and chains signi ed a point blank repudiation of the corporate grind. You were one thing or the other. Forty years on, things have changed, barriers smashed, boundaries blurred.
Now, the Max Mara woman demands success on her own terms and dresses accordingly. Her don’t-mess-with-me coat and those tough looking leather suspenders hanging from her waistband are a declaration that our heroine is in a determined and de ant mood. Max Mara says classic doesn’t have to be conservative, especially when it’s served up with feline attitude, a little gothic grit and a big splash of bombshell glamour.
Everything is rede ned; tailored Teddies and voluptuous drapes; leopard spots and Prince-de-Galles; fringes and shtails; duffel coats and diamante; maverick camel and radical pink. Max Mara works the dialectic to generate a smouldering energy. Spotlight on punk queens Siouxsie and Sinead as they take the stage in a late night downtown cabaret.
Max Mara’s chanteuses wear mean looking stilettoes, catlike eyewear and a new take on the handbag to wear diva style. T-shirts featuring graphics dedicated to Max Mara by the legendary artist François Berthoud celebrate the imagi- nary gig. Luxury is a lazy word, used to lump together everything with a little practical purpose.
Max Mara merits a more precise de nition, after all, these are clothes with a purpose -to empower. And how can an item of clothing empower? Just watch a woman slip into a Max Mara coat; she feels like a star, she can conquer the world. That hasn’t changed since the brand began the long march with the working woman.
Year on year, it’s Max Mara’s job to recalibrate the can- ons of style to sync with “l’air du temps”; for 2018 Max Mara proposes a chic new mix that’s one part boardroom exec, one part husky songbird, and one part screen siren.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, MAX MARA, MAX MARA FW 2018-19
Tue, February 27 2018 » Fashion Blog
Stars from the Stars
This season at Moschino Jeremy Scott ventures deep into Area 51 territory to concoct a collection that puts conspiracy theory into fashion practice. What if extra-terrestrials really did walk among us? What if Marilyn Monroe really was knocked off by the feds to stop her spilling the beans about her Roswell pillow talk with JFK?? And – deep breath – wasn’t Jackie O too perfect to be human???
The parallel narratives of the paranoid are deployed by Scott to create a collection that’s so real it’s unreal. Our first contact comes via a series of out of this world dresses and separates that mix just so mid-century daywear with the cut and zippers of the iconic Moschino biker jacket.
The colors are pumped: Scott ventured beyond the realms of Pantone this season to discover powerful shades that have fallen into disuse. Some looks feature wide vertical stripes, others touches of leather, and yet other sports-touched looks come in a three colorway, cracked zig-zag brocade. A Moschino foulard print is twisted with polka-pixels. We see Venus in faux furs. Everything’s matchy-matchy. She’s fabulous – and she’s not from around here.
Further frazzle is delivered thanks to this season’s capsule collection, a collaboration with the awesome Australian artist Ben Frost. His hyper-stylised images of feminine ‘perfection’ collaged with the packaging of the products with which we self-medicate in this consumer age work perfectly on cute handbags, gamine dresses, to-die-for phone cases and more – buy ‘em now!
The daywear has landed – we orbit to night. We see a series of siren dresses and tuxedos that come slashed, chopped, hybridised and collided and mix metallics and sequins, crystals and silks. They combine goddess gathering from the first great age of Old Hollywood glamour with a hot-pink hello to Marilyn Monroe plus looks from a later, more empowered age – as if some new arrival had processed the humanity’s entire red-carpet history at hyperspeed then materialised the best of it all together.
These are looks fit for a star from the stars. Plan Nine from outer space. The Truth? It’s Out There! Believe.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2018-19
Mon, February 26 2018 » Fashion Blog
The Alberta Ferretti Fall/Winter 2018 collection depicts an edgier woman, one that has more character, along with more style. This collection proposes a contemporary and decisive interpretation of daywear, that enhanced with personal styling, is capable of transitioning from day to night. These are bold silhouettes with statement shoulders that emphasize a new twist to the Alberta Ferretti’s aesthetic.
«Through my designs, I wanted to highlight character affirmation. I imagined a confident and assertive woman. For this reason, I have decided to include my friend Lorenzo Quinn’s sculpture “Gravity” as a focal point of the runway, a masterpiece that places the woman at the center of the Universe, which for me, is a metaphor of reality,» declares Alberta Ferretti.
Dynamic but not tied to trends, the collection exudes confident ability in mixing textiles such as denim with feathers as well as adding flashes of gold light through fabrics, sculpted jewels or metallic belts. Daywear includes coats, skirts, and leather capes lined with wool or jersey and paired with black denim jumpsuits. Jackets are reinterpreted in jacquard fabrics.
The transition from daywear to evening wear is characterized by vibrant gold and silver sequins seen also on the T-shirts and skirts. Simple silhouettes and embellished details come together to create a goddess gown sprinkled in crystals. Her muses are seen in high heeled boots and sandals made from colored silk cords, enriched with small tassels.
A collection that paints Alberta Ferretti’s new woman; she is decisive, strong, and aesthetically impactful.
«I want to bring justice to women by respecting their natural elegance,» concludes Alberta Ferretti.
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Tags: ALBERTA FERRETTI, ALBERTA FERRETTI FW 2018-19, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19
Mon, February 26 2018 » Fashion Blog
MAJORETTE
Majorette. The title of the N° 21 fall/winter 2018-19 collection comes from the professional figure of a young woman who, in a cross between sport and spectacle, makes a pattern of movements with a baton, by turning it and throwing it into the air, usually within the context of a group exhibition. Once the show is over, the majorette takes off her uniform and returns to her daily routine.
Creative director. Alessandro dell’Acqua, N° 21 creative director, comments: «Starting out from an after- dark idea of fun, festive situations, I found in the majorette an embodiment of the incongruity between a common, working-class type of public entertainment and the spontaneous expression of an unconscious, off-the-cuff glamour that’s all the same authentic, uniquely personal. What I had in mind is a woman who – while no diva, no vamp, no star – knows how to dazzle in her everyday life. This enabled me to develop many aspects of today’s fashion that seem contradictory: as in, brightness and dark spirit, glamour and glam punk, as well as my ever-favorite masculine/feminine mix. Last but not least, it enabled me to get back the joy I take in a fashion that I’d like to become once again an expression of research, first and foremost.»
Luminosity. The neon signs of Las Vegas casinos make a splash on dresses, skirts, coats, jackets that all feature a shiny-sequin-studded wool/leather/leopard mix where black portrays the inkiness of wet asphalt and colors mimic the dazzling effects of bright lights. Likewise, gold inserts illuminate both the ponyskin parkas worn over short floral slip-dresses and the gold- or silver-fringed-sleeve shirts in mannish checks worn with lace sideband pants. Equally bright are the mannish outfits with crystal-trimmed jackets, pants and cabans; and the maxi sequin-fringed mohair cardigans, over tartan plaid chiffon dresses, under tulle slip-dresses with allover crystal embroidery.
Glamour. An element finding redefinition in fresh contemporary form, it highlights the mannish quality of sequin-embroidered sweaters and gilet vests, and of kid mohair pants, to create newly alluring images through long colored gloves and through ponyskin coats under wider camel tone wool ones. Similarly, the new glam uses lace dresses, gold brocade slip-dresses and sequined straight skirts as the ideal bases for mannish jackets.
Fringe. «An element expressing joy, for me it’s a first. I used fringe to design a collection that, in addition to focusing on the product, went back to taking a stance on fashion,» says Alessandro dell’Acqua.
Lolita. This is the name of the colorful new leather N° 21 bag, complete with big leather fringe pom-pom that will become its trademark.
Accessories. Shoes: crystal- and bow-studded medium heel pumps, satin crystal-trimmed creepers, leather or spotted ponyskin creepers, gold tone-soled sneakers. Bags: sequin-fringed shoulder bags in big and small sizes, large tote bags with long fringe. Necklaces with whistle pendant. Keychains with leopard print case. Eyewear, as ever in partnership with Linda Farrow, featuring crystal-studded frames.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, N°21, N°21 FW 2018-19
Mon, February 26 2018 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Fall Winter 2018-19 Fashion Show in Live Streaming – Milan 24th February 2018 at 7.00 PM, Milan time. Stay Tuned… (more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, LIVE STREAMING, PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI FW 2018-19
Sat, February 24 2018 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 24 2018 » Fashion Blog
In a hothouse of winter hedonism, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos explore the antique riches of Persia via secessionist Vienna. Tapestries, blown glass and Biedermaier become noble orals that bleed and melt into cascades and curves. The marbled palette of frosted pastels and faded jewels washes from coral, caramel, chartreuse and peach to petrol and midnight blue.
The mood is decadent and soigné, as design and décor is transposed onto textural outerwear in brushed mohair jacquards and graphic ombré dresses in hammered satin. Kaftan and kimono shapes accent a soft shoulder, and deep v-necklines tie with a demure bow.
Shawl collared tailoring in piped crepe and quilted silk are cinched with tasseled belts that loop through the waist, and engineered knit dresses dissolve into stripes and ribbons. A stained-glass effect is suffused throughout in patchworks of tufted cashmere or teddy shearling and dresses paneled in gauzy sorbet silk. Prismatic sequins and giant cabochon buttons lift the season’s opulent hand even further into the third dimension.
In collaboration with Marco Panconesi, double hoops sparkle with Swarovski crystal, and resin petals clasp the earlobe or wrist.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, PETER PILOTTO, PETER PILOTTO FW 2018-19
Sat, February 24 2018 » Fashion Blog
This season, Roksanda explores a body of work from Parisian artist Caroline Denervaud. Using intrinsic, dance like movements and emotion, Caroline makes sweeping strokes across her canvas to portray colour, shape, balance and form. Through this, and other influences from contemporary choreography and Pina Baush’s indefinable genre of dance, Roksanda reveals her unexpected and modern femininity once more.
Cashmere blend tailoring and outerwear in classic camel shades is layered with double faced felted wool and chunky hand knit, contrasting with delicate, tumbled silk satins and tulle. Softly quilted coats and scarves in crisp cotton poplin are reminiscent of a modern traveller. Fringed mohair blankets are wrapped effortlessly around the body and transform into skirts and coats, pinned with natural and cut stones, amethyst, jade and agate, adding organic elegance.
Foulard dresses in contrasting colours inspired by Denervaud’s abstract combinations are detailed with silk necklines and elegant trailing ties. Light, sculptural shapes and silhouettes have Roksanda’s signature voluminous sleeves, fabric softly rolled and tucked by hand to create bounce and movement. Fil coupe and prints are inspired by kinetic and colourful ‘traces’ and line drawings in matt silk organza and fine printed lamé.
A crescendo of embroidered, sheer tulle dresses are inspired the delicacy of Caroline’s paintings, romantic technique, light and transparent. Layers of hand cut tulle shapes, each with it’s own unique technique, merge to create a cloud of volume, craft and colour. Hand dyed organza is ripped into strips and sewn to create soft tassels. Bugle beads secure floating Italian sequins, laser cut and tucked like polka dots between layers. Black cords and yarns resemble Caroline’s mark making, while ribbons and grosgrain dance out of time to mimic paint strokes.
Modernist details continue in Roksanda’s bag range crafted in soft calves leather; New fringed, woven styles and Roksanda’s signature structural resin and new dyed wooden handles in Delphinium, Toffee, Saffron, Amber, Ice White, and Black.
Feminine colour blocked mules and knee high boots in suede, leather and mock croc are in collaboration with Malone Souliers.
Colours; Ochre, Camel, Jade, Marine, Eucalyptus, Brick, Biscotti, Powder Pink, Midnight, Limoncello, Merlot, Pistachio, Dephimium, Rose, Storm Blue, Brick, Powder Pink, Rose, Forest green, Coral, Amber
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, ROKSANDA, ROKSANDA FW 2018-19
Fri, February 23 2018 » Fashion Blog
A collective collection, of individuals in individual looks. For autumn/winter 2018, Ports 1961 is an urban tribe. Striding between divides of town and country, male and female, decorated and minimal, the collection responds to a mood of perpetual change, underscoring the peripatetic state of contemporary life and the notion of travel intrinsic to the identity of Ports.
Creative Director Nataša Cǎ galj and her team draw inspiration from reality – the reality of a woman’s wardrobe, the world around her, her social and cultural identities. Decorative motifs are drawn from the actuality of fabrics and manufacture: MADE IN ENGLAND and MADE IN ITALY are used for jacquard patterns and prints. These echo the internationalism of fashion today, and Ports’ identity in particular. Graphic capes are based on manufacturing labels, and care instructions taken from cashmere goods. These respond to another reality – that of luxury now.
There is a mood of bricolage – the innate freedom encourages combinations of different elements and themes, united in their diversity. The Ports 1961 show takes place in the Tanks of Tate Modern.
Art meets artisanal – a sense of the hand and of craft is vital to Ports. Textures and textiles place 2-D and 3-D side by side: finely woven Japanese wool, double-face silk cady and slick coated cottons contrast with intricate, hand-woven and hand-knitted textiles and 3-D print finishes in gloss or flock. Double-face fabrics feature trompe l’oeil animal patterns in differing scales, jacquarded into reversible double-face capes. A mohair twinset is knitted with holographic fringe, their iridescence echoed in waterproof coatings on suiting and cottons, and sequins form “showers” of fringe – practical and witty takes on the inclement British weather. The palette contrasts sombre shades of suiting with bright injections of colour – rich browns, camel, greys and khaki against ginger, pillbox red and Wallis blue.
Both silhouettes and inspirations are free and layered. Flyaway rectangular panes of fabric lend movement to shapes, shoulders are wide and eased off the body, pleated skirts animate. Garments shift, change and transform. Panels and sleeves can be added to and subtracted from pieces, the former drawn around oversized tailoring to transform shapes and perception, defining the waist to shift from masculine to feminine – another move, a different kind of travel.
For autumn/winter 2018, Ports 1961 debuts a full line of accessories. Shoes are flat, mannish brogues in leathers or silks, alongside block-heeled boots. The handbag offering includes the new Hatton, shown both as a ladylike frame shape and compact, elongated clutch with signature modernist burnished-brass clasp. The rigour and precision of these accessories form a contrast to the freedom elsewhere.
This collection traverses new territory for Ports 1961 – a different journey, a fresh terrain. A new tribe.
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Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2018-19, PORTS 1961, PORTS 1961 FW 2018-19
Fri, February 23 2018 » Fashion Blog
